High travel, high clearance & high octane, a streetable adventure LJ story

Where did you have clearance issues exactly with the 42RLE? I didn't notice anything but I may not have been looking at the right place?
 
Where did you have clearance issues exactly with the 42RLE? I didn't notice anything but I may not have been looking at the right place?

Drivers side stuffed and passenger side drooped. With your 12" of travel you may not have this issue.
 
It's hitting the transmission itself at those conditions? I have close contact to the exhaust manifold but I'm adding a exhaust hanger on pass side off motor (Blaine's suggestion) to pull it over best I can.
 
It's hitting the transmission itself at those conditions? I have close contact to the exhaust manifold but I'm adding a exhaust hanger on pass side off motor (Blaine's suggestion) to pull it over best I can.
The driveshaft will hit the test port plugs on the side of the trans and then hit the side of the mid arm bracket at the frame side. We have to run small front driveshafts to get them to clear everything when the axle cycles.
 
It's hitting the transmission itself at those conditions? I have close contact to the exhaust manifold but I'm adding a exhaust hanger on pass side off motor (Blaine's suggestion) to pull it over best I can.

Your JK44 might have the diff (and thus yoke) positioned more driver's side than a RJ60.

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The driveshaft will hit the test port plugs on the side of the trans and then hit the side of the mid arm bracket at the frame side. We have to run small front driveshafts to get them to clear everything when the axle cycles.

Would a propshaft be a solution or would that only create another problem?
 
The front axle and all linkages are back under the Jeep. At this point if a bolt is tight, it either has loctite or antiseize and is properly torqued.

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I reflared and bent the frame side brake line to the outboard side. And ran the brake flex line (Fragola 341030) down the UCA to the T on the axle.

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The calipers got pads from Black Magic Brakes and 12" flex line from Fragola (311012).

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I was having issues with the manual hubs not unlocking and Yukon has been no help. I figured out that using qty 2 of the .400" spacer rings per side (total of .800" per side) allows them to lock and unlock reliably. The Yukon part number is COMLO-0802 or I'm sure some aluminum tubing could work.

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Currie made a revision to the recommended fluid capacity over the last year. When I purchased the axles they called for 3 qts for the front and 2.5-3qts for the rear. They found that this was causing the axle seals to eventually leak. Now Currie recommends 2.5qts of 85w-140 non-synthetic gear oil for the front and rear RJ60 and RJ60VXR.

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To secure the axle skid I preloaded it with the weight of the Jeep and welded it to the front tie-in bracket. I painted it and will throw it back under the Jeep once the paint cures.

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Now that I have the front axle in, the next main step is to get the front fenders on and stuff everything in it's place under the hood. But first, I want to get all the electronics in place front to back. This way I can diagram what needs to go where and keep the wiring as clean as possible.

Here's my initial wiring list:

Winch (pos and neg) - Directly off battery
Fuse block 1 (engine bay):
  • Rock lights
  • Reverse lights
  • Battery Tender quick connect
  • Aux lights
  • ARB compressor
  • CB radio (neg to battery)
Fuse block 2 (under dash):
  • 4 channel amplifier
  • Mono amplifier
  • Gauges
  • Heated seats
 
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The sound system seemed like a fun place to start! What I first intended as a minor upgrade to the existing OEM stereo turned into a full install while remaining as factory looking as possible. Nothing factory will remain!

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For starters, I don't listen to the AM/FM radio anymore so I removed the antenna. I'll be placing armor over the hole later.

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For the 4 speakers, I first went with Polk DB522. These are marine certified which probably isn't a huge benefit considering the speaker placement, but having a worry-free sound system when the trails get wet is comforting.

The fronts are mounted in Select Increments Dash-Pods. I installed these same pods previously in my wife's khaki TJ and there was a noticeable improvement to the sound with them. Since I am rewiring my speakers with heavier gauge speaker wire, I placed a weatherpack connector in the back of each pod for easy future removal. For the front speakers, I ran 16ga wire. The pods have plenty of clearance with my cage's A pillar.

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For the roll cage speaker pods up top, I poly filled the pods and ran new speaker wires through a cut in the existing boots along with a weatherpack connector on each. The factory grills fit over top with some notching to the Polk speakers:

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The ends have all been crimped and heatshrinked. Due to the longer runs for the rear, I used 14ga wire.

The sub in the console I upgraded to a Kicker CompRT 43CWRT672 which is also water resistant. A little cutting of the back of the box was required to get it to sit flush but nothing major. The factory amp was removed and sound deadening placed to cover the hole to seal the backside. The entire box was then poly filled. The sub is wired with 12ga wire.

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All of these speakers and sub could be run as-is by the factory radio and amp — which is a good option if you're looking for a basic upgrade that can be built upon later (Crutchfield makes it easy by including wiring harness adapters too). But I can be a real audio junkie at times so I wanted big power with high quality to really drive the speakers and get the most out of them. I am also unhappy with the sound in my wife's khaki TJ with the same speakers and figured that an amp would make the difference. This means I wanted an amp with high RMS, low THD, and high signal to noise ratio. There are cheaper lower quality alternatives out there that would be better than none, but the amps are something that can move between stereos and speakers. So I opted to cry once.

I started with an Alpine S-A55V 5 channel speaker thinking that one unit that could handle the 4 speakers and subwoofer would be easier to wire. However, it's BIG. With some finesse, it fits under the steering column but in a panic situation I felt that it would be too close to the brake pedal and may delay reaction time. It also fit under the seats, but those areas can get wet. The other place it fit was inside the glovebox but that reduced storage too much for my liking.

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I sent that amp back and ordered up an Alpine KTA-30FW 4 channel Tough Power Pack and a KTA-30MW mono channel for the subwoofer. These things are each about half the size of the big one and have even more power! They are also IP66 water resistant which means it's one less thing to worry about while Jeeping (again, due to the mounting location I'm not super concerned with them getting submerged but more concerned about humidity getting to them over time).

One is stuffed behind the stereo location:

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(I promise my wiring routing is cleaner than it appears in this picture.)

And the other is under the steering column on a 1/4" sheet of UHMW:

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For wiring, I will be bringing a single 4ga wire in from the battery (once I figure out exactly where the battery is going) and tie it into a 4 fuse distribution block from Blue Sea Systems. Each amp runs off a 10ga wire from there. The other 2 fuses will be used for the heated seats and gauges. It really helps clean up the wiring a bit.

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The fuse blocks offered by many audio companies (such as Crutchfield and Sonic) use a set screw style retainer for the wires. In my opinion, this is a bad idea for any car and especially for a Jeep where there can be a lot of vibration and water in the engine bay. A loose battery lead can cause a preventable fire. Crimping is the best way to terminate the wires. Adhesive lined heatshrink tubing can be placed on the ends to provide strain relief and keep them free from the elements and oxygen.

Because the amplifiers will be grounding through the body/chassis, once I start wiring under the hood, I will be upgrading the ground strap that goes between the battery and body of the Jeep from the factory 6ga to 4ga. This will help reduce resistance and voltage drop.

Finally, I did what I was most hesitant to do. I replaced the factory stereo with an Alpine iLX-W650 head unit. This unit has nearly none of the things I hate about screens in cars. You can turn it off, it has a mute button, it has a dimmer, the screen isn't too complicated, and the startup up sequence is on the shorter side. I'm not going to say it's perfect, but it's the best I can find for my uses and doesn't annoy me too much.

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This head unit is shallow at under 3" deep so the amp can fit behind it.

Aside from bluetooth streaming music, the screen allows for Android Auto so I can have Google Maps directions pulled up while driving across the country to trails. Google Assistant also works for voice commands. I have a panel mount USB connector on the way and I'll post once I have it installed.

I purchased all of the audio equipment from Crutchfield at their listed prices and I highly recommend them. I'm not sponsored by them (in fact, no part of my build is sponsored). Why I bring this up is because installing car audio isn't entirely plug and play like a new drill is. Crutchfield knows this and has a tech support phone number where they will help you out with your install between the various pieces (have a question where a wire goes? Don't know how to adjust the dials? Call them up!). They also allow for returns if something doesn't work for you like the first big amp I tried. This is one case where price shopping to save a few bucks wasn't worth it for me.
 
I want something to be impressed by in my car.

I decided to get some tunes jamming while I'm working on my Jeep build. So I connected the audio setup to a spare battery I took from my boat.

I was able to get the audio adjusted, and quite frankly, I'm disappointed in the sound.

I'd rate the sound quality as 5/10. Across the board music is muttled sounding. The highs aren't crisp and the mids feel slopped together. There isn't as much separation between instruments and voices as I'd like having. The amp isn't clipping but the music lacks emotion and feels flat. It's fatiguing to listen to. Volume high or low it stays about the same. The same Polk DB522 speakers in my khaki TJ sound about the same but I had thought may be due to not having an amp. They are an improvement over factory, but they aren't great. Value for money I'd give them a 9/10. I've used high quality in ear monitors for years with FLAC recordings and have gotten used to hearing exactly how many guitars are playing, and the precise moment a drum is struck. If it's in the recording, I want to hear it.
 
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I talked to Crutchfield and they sent me out four JL Audio C2-525x speakers to try and compare. I talked to them before placing the order and they fully understand and are fine that I'll be sending them back if I don't like them. Easy returns and exchanges is something that I have really enjoyed about buying from them. The JLs are constructed out of poly materials so they should be reasonably water resistant if they get splashed a little.
 
The JL Audio C2-525x speakers are a night and day difference compared to the Polks. I can now hear the difference in the mounting locations and there is an audible difference in adjusting the bypasses on the amp. These speakers need to be broken in gently for 10-15 hours before being cranked up. The rears in the pods are recreating the sounds very well, if a little too warm for my taste. The fronts had to be spaced forward since these speakers are so deep they hit the HVAC ducts. I mounted them in foam baffles to better protect the back sides from dust. I did cut the bottom of the baffles to prevent the woofer from creating a vacuum. I a/b tested the baffles and I'm not convinced they help the sound although they don't seem to hurt the sound either. The rears still do overpower the fronts due to the mounting location and mess up the sound stage. Clarity across all ranges is very high. At this point I'm splitting hairs. I think the speakers are finally equally matched to my Jeep.

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It's difficult for me to recommend the JL C2s as a blanket statement. If you want to replace the stock speakers with something plug and play and that's all, they're not going to work well for you. These JL C2s require nearly double the watts to put out the same sound volume as the Polks. To do that, you're going to need a fairly high capacity amplifier. Without an amp I would consider the JL C1 series to see if they provide better sound compared to the Polks in pods at a similar price point.

I'm going to wrap this up: The JL Audio C2 speakers with an amp are 5-6x the price of the Polks and they are a solid 10/10 value for the money. There is no depreciating return experienced with these.
 
If you don’t mind my suggestion, and you might already know, but frequency tuning is the best way to get optimal sound out of your head unit. One of my majors in college was sound engineering and have also done countless audio systems - and it makes a night and day difference to how a system performs. Your head unit is perfectly capable of performing the changes most likely needed to make it closer to 9/10 sound - and if you’d like to send me a PM I can walk you through the steps of getting it fine tuned. I push over 2000w of speaker+sub power in my Jeep. And fully understand the difficulty in getting a good sounding setup.
 
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If you don’t mind my suggestion, and you might already know, but frequency tuning is the best way to get optimal sound out of your head unit. One of my majors in college was sound engineering and have also done countless audio systems - and it makes a night and day difference to how a system performs. Your head unit is perfectly capable of performing the changes most likely needed to make it closer to 9/10 sound - and if you’d like to send me a PM I can walk you through the steps of getting it fine tuned. I push over 2000w of speaker+sub power in my Jeep. And fully understand the difficulty in getting a good sounding setup.

Thank you for the offer! I will take you up on that once my Jeep is driving.
 
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While I was installing the subwoofer, I remembered that one of the snubbers for my console lid had gone missing a few years ago. I found a perfect replacement at Ace Hardware and got one for both sides so they'd match. No more sloppy lid!

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I installed the heated seats a few years ago (part of my previous build thread) and I'm still happy with the wiring I had done. With the new fuse block under the dash I was able to shorten the lead from the battery and draw power off this new location.

Keeping the wiring tidy:

20190908_tidy-wiring.jpg
 
The fuse block at the dash is a good idea. My added wiring could use some help.