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Do your testing and adjustment without the front driveshaft installed.

Your signature applies perfectly. The purpose of the fairlead is to move the thimble out of harm's way. Orient it so that it is stored in such a manner to encounter the least amount of damage according to your style of wheeling.

Should be for the harness that runs up the roll bar to the sound bar and then to the rear tail light area.

So it only matters if we aren't doing TJ stuff.

I've never seen a difference in any of them that work in the TJ 4.0 crank. Which ones are different because I'm missing something?

Why do you want the rears to lock up? Do you have a death wish or just a very skilled driver?

Dragging the brakes doesn't rock the shoes to move the adjuster lever up and back on the star wheel to move it. You don't have to drive very far if you are going to do it that way, just apply and release the brake pedal many times in a row. That said, to do it correctly, axle on jack stands...

Why, do they loan out glasses too?

Would you like to borrow my glasses?

Do we need to assume anything when we can clearly see there is a bolt there?

I don't believe you.

Am I the only one who can tell there is a bolt in the picture he posted?

He may not know the difference between an isolator and a spacer. To help, the stock isolator is right at 5/8".

Not that it matters for this discussion, but there is a 7 degree reamer sold by Snap On and others that is called an automotive reamer. It isn't correct. The correct taper is 1.5" per foot. That works out to about 7.15 degrees. The easy way to get it right is to use a tapered reamer from X-kut...

Can the minimum bend radius be required to be larger than the diameter of the line under the knot? ;)

Long enough to get full thread in the bosses, short enough to not go through the core. Do you have a flare bolt that holds on the stock flares? Thread that in until it stops, measure how long that is, add slightly less than 1/8" to it plus or minus a washer, there's your length. Or I can send...

I use 609 on the rod end threads for all the cylinders we cut them down for in our hydro assist due to not having enough room for a jam nut. They never come loose, ever. Also stops you from losing your bumper jewelry.

Yes, but, the exception is we get rain while we are on dirt which makes mud which then gets where we don't want it to and corroded pins suck. Not to mention, if they are tight enough to not fall off, you need a tool to get them loose. I have helped every rig owner that has graced my driveway...

Now that I have a few more minutes, it is time to throw a few rocks. You have no crossmember behind the bumper, it is in FRONT of the bumper. If you need some good washers, post up the bolt diameters and I'll send you some to replace that crap you have now. If those are split locks under the...

I don't do it that way because a wreck that bends the bumper is a pain in the ass. If I do add a weld in cross member in place of a bumper, I make it heavy enough that casual bumps won't hurt it and anything that hurts it will ruin the rig. That logic may not apply to your situation.