Search results

Unbolt the wires or the fuse and use a multimeter to check for continuity. Alternatively you you use a test light and lean the fuse on one battery terminal or the other and connect that polarity to said fuse. Don't completely discount that new alternator...plenty of brand new shit parts out...

Well your woes were enough to motivate me... replaced my charcoal cannister with a VC-120 and a Standard Motor Products purge valve solenoid. Original valve was chock full of charcoal. Cleared my codes and we'll see if they return. Thanks for the motivation! -Mac

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/jeep-wrangler-tj-torque-specs-1997-2006.16906/ Stock control arms with rubber bushings yes it matters and they need to be on the ground with the Jeep level. Aftermarket control arms with Johnny Joints or other flexible joints typically do not need to be on...

Personally I'd be pulling that axle, cleaning up all the rust, painting the living shit out of it with something like POR15. I'd probably preemptively replace the hard brake line and soft one too. And replace every nut and bolt I touch. -Mac

All new parts are junk. I've had my fuel tank up and down four times. I finally put the almost cheapest fuel pump I could buy...a BrutePower from Rock Auto...and it's been good for two plus months. I also installed a fuel pressure gauge using an adapter from Racetronix on my fuel rail so I can...

Ok here's the full video of a simple beach cruise to how I sent the front axle into the oil pan and gridle and how to drop said pan across the street from the Napa auto parts and beat the tick out of your engine. -Mac

Maybe it's time to get your PCM tested? @Wranglerfix -Mac

As long as they're both 1310s...yes. -Mac

Probably different as the size of a 35 vs 44 pumpkin is different. Probably needs to be a touch longer for a 35...might have enough extension to work. -Mac

I'd change that bulb, clear the codes and drive it until something else pops up. For all you know those could have been there for years. -Mac

Flip the Jeep over... -Mac

Battery powered hammer drill, drill holes in the rock face, bolt in anchors and pull...then remove and try and hide or restore the holes. -Mac

Options in this thread... https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/problem-code-p0441.3493/ -Mac

Throw rings in it and get it back running. As Dave Frieburger says ...get it running don't get it right. Next time you're out here drive one home. Or PM me and I'll come up and take you to Brown's Camp. What do you run? -Mac

Hard to say on this one without seeing what's available on those side slopes for anchors...but yeah...find a spot left or right on the vehicle on that steep slope...tree strap around a rock or a 20' strap around a lot of rocks, small trees/shrubs. recovery vehicle in front or behind to side...

Rogers? -Mac

Short answer is probably no. The "I've burned up at least two winch motors and am paranoid" answer is yes. The better answer is this...where are you pulling from... maybe 30' away... sometimes a lot less... especially on narrow trails. So that means you have 50' of rope on the drum... it's 15...

When I totalled my TJ last summer the replacement frame was a 2.4. I cut off the 2.4 brackets and my 4.0 brackets on my bent frame and welded them on. If you've ever looked at the welds on our frames a kid could do better. Metal is thin enough...you can also preheat with a propane or butane...

Only minor quibble might be with a single vehicle doing the recovery...traction depending I'd anchor the recovery vehicle to something. I'd also use a snatch block or recovery ring...it'll help you run out more line so you're closer to the first wrap or two on the winch for more power...and it...

I keep thinking you've got a 4.0. Just stuck in my brain. No idea if you can stroke a 2.4...technically if you're 5 over that's approaching the limits...I think. I don't have much expertise with the 2.4. Good news you'd only need 4 pistons and bearings! -Mac