Super 35 kit?

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Itsgonnabreakforsure

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I need to rebearing the front and rear Dana 30/35

Gearing is way too tall for the 37’s and can’t get out of 3rd.

I’ve seen the Dana 35 super kit and have decided that’s really what I need and want.

I see I need a 30 spline and new carrier but do I actually need a locker or can I just run the open rear for a 30 spline axle? It’s a budget build, a 4 banger with a 5 speed. I don’t go crawling with it, mostly a Sunday driver and will take it on some trails but everything around me is flat and sandy so I’m not really sure if I need a true locker.

Looking for recommendations and willing to be a tester for a super 35. I know I’ll need to rear gear and found a 5:13 gear kit for the Dana 35. I would like to have some low end but also be able to use all gears and cruise at 70-80mph.

I found Revolution 4320 axles
Nitro gear 5.13 gears for Dana 30/dana 35
Do I need a special bearing kit for the larger axles or do the gear set come with it?
I found open rear carriers, and a shit ton of different locker styles. I have no idea what to get because I don’t know what is really needed for my type of wheeling. I’m open for best bang for the buck but also open for what is realistic for my needs and if I have to spend more to do it right I’d rather be happy than wish I did something else.

Appreciate yall and can’t wait to see some of the responses
 
5.13 won't be low enough gears either. Especially with a 4 cyl.

Get a kit if you go super 35.there aren't many choices
 
I'm pretty sure you can't do a super 35 without also installing a locker that accepts 30 spline axles. You'll also want the 1541h axles from revolution. Lastly, you said you're on 37s which are too big to reliably run a super 35.
 
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I don’t know of a 30 spline carrier that isn’t a locker. I also think if you’re needing the strength for a 30 spline just get a selectable locker bc you’ll never regret having it. Ima fan of arb lockers for a super 35 kit and as they said you need the 1541h shafts with revolution being the go to (I actually had a super 35 arb locker I was going to rebuild but got a deal on a 30/44 with lockers) . Secondly 37s are still too much for a super 35, that’s tons territory. I’m on light 33s and 4.56 gears. At 4-5k foot elevation and somewhat flat ground with no wind I can hold 75mph in 5th at 3.2k rpm which I believe the 2.5 peaks at around 3.5k. No way will you be able to run 70-80 on 37s I think with any gearing. I’ve been told 35s with 5.13 will be even slower than what I have now so I’d expect max of 70mph then. If you’re not wheeling drop the tire size to a 33 or 35 with the super 35 and 5.13 gears and it’ll at least be ok at that size.
 
GregBelleville said:
I'm pretty sure you can't do a super 35 without also installing a locker that accepts 30 spline axles. You'll also want the 1541h axles from revolution. Lastly, you said you're on 37s which are too big to reliably run a super 35.
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If I drop down to 35’s would it give me more peace of mind? PO set this thing up and now I’m trying to make it a little more correct
 
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The4bangertj said:
I don’t know of a 30 spline carrier that isn’t a locker. I also think if you’re needing the strength for a 30 spline just get a selectable locker bc you’ll never regret having it. Ima fan of arb lockers for a super 35 kit and as they said you need the 1541h shafts with revolution being the go to (I actually had a super 35 arb locker I was going to rebuild but got a deal on a 30/44 with lockers) . Secondly 37s are still too much for a super 35, that’s tons territory. I’m on light 33s and 4.56 gears. At 4-5k foot elevation and somewhat flat ground with no wind I can hold 75mph in 5th at 3.2k rpm which I believe the 2.5 peaks at around 3.5k. No way will you be able to run 70-80 on 37s I think with any gearing. I’ve been told 35s with 5.13 will be even slower than what I have now so I’d expect max of 70mph then. If you’re not wheeling drop the tire size to a 33 or 35 with the super 35 and 5.13 gears and it’ll at least be ok at that size.
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This PO put a 3” BL on it and I’m afraid it’s going to look absolutely retarded I’ve been thinking about just removing it
 
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I’d drop it to 33’s and run 5.13s. Even 35’s with 5.13 and the 4 cylinder will still somewhat suck. All of it will feel dramatically better than you have now though.

I’d remove the 3” BL too.
 
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Itsgonnabreakforsure said:
This PO put a 3” BL on it and I’m afraid it’s going to look absolutely retarded I’ve been thinking about just removing it
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Remove it. A 1.25in body lift is very beneficial but anything more has no benefit. The 1.25 allows for a tummy tuck skid and often can use gas tanks that are raised allowing better clearance as well.
 
Ditto on what everyone else is saying, drop down to 33s and no body lift or 35s with an 1.25in body lift, regear to 5.13 with a super 35, it will never be quick tho, my previous tj was a 2.5, at least you have the manual with the 3 speed auto I was topped out comfortably at like 60 without feeling like I was pushing the motor too hard, it was a 2.5 on 35s with 5.13 gears
 
I have a brand new set of Revolution Gear & Axle Super 35 30-spline axles, bearings and seals for sale, here on this site. Only opened the box to look at them…
 
Blake Stamper said:
Ditto on what everyone else is saying, drop down to 33s and no body lift or 35s with an 1.25in body lift, regear to 5.13 with a super 35, it will never be quick tho, my previous tj was a 2.5, at least you have the manual with the 3 speed auto I was topped out comfortably at like 60 without feeling like I was pushing the motor too hard, it was a 2.5 on 35s with 5.13 gears
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Hey,at least you could never break a ujoint and finding traction thresholds was much easier than the other guys.

2.5l/30rh is definitely best for around town and light trails though.
 
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