Higher horses, higher revs & even higher torque, a streetable LJ engine swap
- Thread starter toximus
- Start date
OP
No, it's what's now called the 300w fan. I bought it before the 500w was available. If I need more cooling I'll upgrade to the 500w fan.
OP
Those Hemis put more into heat than they do power, huh?
Good to know. Thankfully it'd be a bolt on replacement for me. I want to carry a spare fan so I might even grab that one sooner and keep this one as a spare.
OP
I'm leaning that way but second guessing it. I haven't bought a radiator yet as I'm a ways out from needing one and I'm undecided.
How are you planning to control the fan?
OP
GM ECU controls the fan via PWM controller. So in addition to engine temp, if the trans gets hot or the air conditioner kicks on it'll run the cooling fan harder. At least that's what's supposed to happen, obviously no real world experience yet. I also have an emergency override to run the fan at 100%.
The 6L80E should be so much more efficient than the 42RLE I took out and thus create less heat.
OP
The RPM Extreme LS3 harness routes the transmission and transfercase wiring down the top of the transmission. Because I plan to route the hot exhaust across that same area I decided to route the wiring along the frame and transmission crossmember instead.
To lengthen the 6L80e transmission wiring, I purchased a pigtail from LSwiring.com (https://lswiring.com/products/transmission-control-module-tcm-t43-6l80-6l90-pigtail) and lengthened the harness wiring by 85".
Cut off the old:
Lengthening:
The transfercase 4x4 switch wiring I lengthened by 48" using 20awg wire.
(the skid is lowered right now)
For the fuel pump, it felt silly keeping the stock routing along the frame and jumping back to the body so I rerouted it through the interior of the Jeep along the door wiring to my fuel cell in the back. Much cleaner wiring now!
To lengthen the 6L80e transmission wiring, I purchased a pigtail from LSwiring.com (https://lswiring.com/products/transmission-control-module-tcm-t43-6l80-6l90-pigtail) and lengthened the harness wiring by 85".
Cut off the old:
Lengthening:
The transfercase 4x4 switch wiring I lengthened by 48" using 20awg wire.
(the skid is lowered right now)
For the fuel pump, it felt silly keeping the stock routing along the frame and jumping back to the body so I rerouted it through the interior of the Jeep along the door wiring to my fuel cell in the back. Much cleaner wiring now!
OP
For my fuel line, I previously ran a really long flex hose down the entire length of the Jeep. It was made from Aeroquip socketless hose which is rated to a maximum temperature of 300F. I don't like this hose running down the length of the Jeep because, while unlikely, a sharp rock kicked up by the tires could puncture it. And because it will be running through the engine bay close to the exhaust manifold it could exceed the maximum temperature rating.
To replace this, for the main length down the frame I bent and flared 3/8" annealed stainless steel tubing (Earl's 361-661696). I flared the ends to 6AN and used stainless steel tube nuts (Earl's 361-SS581806) and sleeves (Earl's 361-SS581906).
37* flare:
Bent up stainless steel hard line that'll be down the frame rail:
For the flex hose running through the engine bay I mocked it up out of reused socketless hose for measurements and then sent the measurements to Brint at Fragola to make out of their Race-Rite hose with crimp on ends which has a maximum temperature rating of 500F and is more abrasion resistant. Additionally, I will be covering this line in heat shielding. Can you tell that I don't want to die?
Mock up:
Heat isn't as much of a concern to me for the transmission lines because they have a much steadier flow of fluid running through them (even when idling) which will cool the lines.
I should have the new hose from Fragola next week.
To replace this, for the main length down the frame I bent and flared 3/8" annealed stainless steel tubing (Earl's 361-661696). I flared the ends to 6AN and used stainless steel tube nuts (Earl's 361-SS581806) and sleeves (Earl's 361-SS581906).
37* flare:
Bent up stainless steel hard line that'll be down the frame rail:
For the flex hose running through the engine bay I mocked it up out of reused socketless hose for measurements and then sent the measurements to Brint at Fragola to make out of their Race-Rite hose with crimp on ends which has a maximum temperature rating of 500F and is more abrasion resistant. Additionally, I will be covering this line in heat shielding. Can you tell that I don't want to die?
Mock up:
Heat isn't as much of a concern to me for the transmission lines because they have a much steadier flow of fluid running through them (even when idling) which will cool the lines.
I should have the new hose from Fragola next week.
OP
Tap shift and tow/haul switch wired in:
The switch is custom etched by Billet Automotive Buttons in Australia.
I'm sure I mentioned it when I installed it, but the tap shift kit for the Winters shifter came from Rad Designs. I don't see it available on their website anymore but I'm sure anyone interested could email them. I attached the instructions here.
Because you guys enjoyed the connector pictures last time, here's some of me crimping the Deutsch connectors.
Strip:
Crimp:
I left a little too much wire exposed, the wire insulation should perfectly kiss the pin. But it'll be fine.
Bouquet of pins:
Inserted into connector:
Wedge lock acts as TPA (Terminal Position Assurance):
The switch is custom etched by Billet Automotive Buttons in Australia.
I'm sure I mentioned it when I installed it, but the tap shift kit for the Winters shifter came from Rad Designs. I don't see it available on their website anymore but I'm sure anyone interested could email them. I attached the instructions here.
Because you guys enjoyed the connector pictures last time, here's some of me crimping the Deutsch connectors.
Strip:
Crimp:
I left a little too much wire exposed, the wire insulation should perfectly kiss the pin. But it'll be fine.
Bouquet of pins:
Inserted into connector:
Wedge lock acts as TPA (Terminal Position Assurance):
Attachments
Speaking of fuel line integrity. I prefer fuel rail adapters that have a thread in retainer rather than plastic tabs. Supposedly the aftermarket tab style can pop off
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-751166erl
I used this style on my LS swap
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-751166erl
I used this style on my LS swap
OP
OP
OP
As soon as I finished up the trans loom I realized that I can correct MPH in low range by calculating it on my digital dash (more on that once I get to it). So I took the loom back apart, put in 2 more wires, and ordered a switch for low range (300364) from Advance Adapters to go in the Atlas.
Terminated with a Weather Pack connector:
Talking to Advance Adapters, they did mention that the Atlas low range switch does trigger when the transfer case is in low range and neutral. However that shouldn't be an issue for me since I don't really need to know how fast I'm going in neutral. They mentioned it could be an issue for some applications.
Terminated with a Weather Pack connector:
Talking to Advance Adapters, they did mention that the Atlas low range switch does trigger when the transfer case is in low range and neutral. However that shouldn't be an issue for me since I don't really need to know how fast I'm going in neutral. They mentioned it could be an issue for some applications.
OP
Progressed has slowed slightly as I do some maintenance this week on my truck and house.
Spliced in the wires to the Jeep PCM C3 connector for cruise control and air conditioning.
Spliced in the wires to the Jeep PCM C3 connector for cruise control and air conditioning.
OP
Yeah. Keeping the rest of the suspension stock. I busted one of the stock shocks and I've felt that there's too much secondary bouncing with them anyway. I have about 10,000 miles on the rears and so far the truck feels more controlled and I'm able to stiffen them by turning the DSCs if I'm loaded.
I’m not looking forward to the day it’s time to replace my Dssv shocks on the ZR2.
OP
Buy a Ford! Thankfully Fords have replaceable parts. (Mainly because it's not awesome from the factory lol).