Basket's Build

Are there any markings as to what the axles are rated for?

I can check for that later too

I'll mostly likely end up basing it on this
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Looks like they are both at least 3500lb axles, both tubes measure to 2 7/8". Not on the chart I posted but that'd put them between 3500 and 5k? Looks like PO tried to strengthen them further too not sure if it makes a difference lol.
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It looks like the deck is supported by 6 cross beams. PO alternated between smaller I-beams and 2x2s. Not sure what would be "adequate" for my jeep, which weighs probably around 3500?

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The deck measures 15'8" x 87". My wheels are about 71" face to face to plenty of space.

I believe the coupler is this:
https://www.trailerjacks.com/bulldo...Z6f2wJe9F8_40OdExLUsNl7chz1D39VcaAp0YEALw_wcB

The GWVR has worn away but I can make out BULLDOG and this is their 2" ball option, rated for 7k.
 
Looks like a good score. A little more work and you'll have a trailer.
Then just have to get the correct hitch extension for your weight and you'll be golden.
 
What size tires? What are their rating?

That frame looks pretty heavy duty

Not sure on the tires, they're fairly new, I believe my friend had to buy them to get the trailer around his yard or something. I'll check them out when I take the dog out.

Thanks for helping me check all the important bits :LOL:
 
Not sure on the tires, they're fairly new, I believe my friend had to buy them to get the trailer around his yard or something. I'll check them out when I take the dog out.

Thanks for helping me check all the important bits :LOL:

Yes having the correct load range tires for your trailer is HIGHLY important. You aren't interested in C or E load range you want even heavier duty type tires & also TRAILER specific tires.
 
Goddamnit. Fucking metalcloak. The hardware they ship with their shit is allen-key bolts but its like they powder coat it so the only way to get an allen into it is to hammer it in. And now I've got this bullshit to deal with because of it. Now I get to take it all back apart and weld this nut back down, and decide if I want to replace all the hardware or risk it happening again. Fuck metalcloak man

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Goddamnit. Fucking metalcloak. The hardware they ship with their shit is allen-key bolts but its like they powder coat it so the only way to get an allen into it is to hammer it in. And now I've got this bullshit to deal with because of it. Now I get to take it all back apart and weld this nut back down, and decide if I want to replace all the hardware or risk it happening again. Fuck metalcloak man

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Looks like you busted a nut.
 
Those are some very old axles under that trailer but they are good for 3.5k each or a touch more depending on tires. You are going to find parts for them hard to get to borderline non existent. I would give them a good serve now so you know the bearings and seals are in good working order and save up for some 5200# axles and new tires/wheels.
 
Worked on putting the metalcloak bumper on today. I got some new grade 8 hex head bolts from Ace to replace the janky sized allens MC provided. Got the nut tacked back on pretty easily.

The bottom nut in the frame for the bumper was welded at an angle from factory, and had always been a problem getting the bolt in through both the bumper and steering skid. I decided to fix that while I was at it as it was even harder now with the thicker gauge in the new bumper, and I already had all the welding stuff out.

I cut as much as I could with the dremel, and got to work with a hammer and chisel to remove it.

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Filed it flat, welded a wide and thick washer to the nut, and welded that all down and painted.

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Got the bumper mounted up and the winch respooled, looks decent.

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I might see if I can find some mounts for the stinger for a light bar I have hanging around. I'll have to see if the lengths will work well together.
He's watchin

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I test fitted the ReadyBrake with the lower holes on the bumper - looks like it's nice and flat now. Mission accomplished.

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I'll need to pick up some safety chains the right length tomorrow, I have locking hitch pins coming tomorrow (the ReadyBrake doesn't come with a pin for some reason). Then I can hook up the readybrake and go for a test drive.
 
Those are some very old axles under that trailer but they are good for 3.5k each or a touch more depending on tires. You are going to find parts for them hard to get to borderline non existent. I would give them a good serve now so you know the bearings and seals are in good working order and save up for some 5200# axles and new tires/wheels.
Ah okay. Well hopefully it isn't in too rough of shape and I can make it work for a bit. I'll have to take it apart and see what kind of shape the drums and bearings are. I may or may not try to salvage them based on that, and how awful it will be to wire them vs. wiring new ones.

Why go for 5200# axles over 3500#? 2x3500# can carry 7k right?
 
Ah okay. Well hopefully it isn't in too rough of shape and I can make it work for a bit. I'll have to take it apart and see what kind of shape the drums and bearings are. I may or may not try to salvage them based on that, and how awful it will be to wire them vs. wiring new ones.

Why go for 5200# axles over 3500#? 2x3500# can carry 7k right?

Trailer wiring is cake. Seals and grease are cheap and worth the effort.

That trailer plus your Tj I bet is 6k plus and running a trailer at or near 100 percent will come back to bite you. See it all the time up here. Of course we have such great roads up here too.
 
Been busy with important but unglamorous prep work for Moab.

In the truck, I flushed the coolant and brake fluid, so now all the juices in there are new since I picked it up except front diff, which isn't really necessary since it runs in 2wd most of the time.

In the jeep I greased and retorqued suspension and steering parts. My track bar frame side mount bolt was loose enough I could grab it and turn it with my fingers :eek: might explain why it's been a bit squirrely on the highway lately. Also got a new regulator in for my OBA since the other one didn't work out of the box, and I removed all the fittings and used a better thread sealant so that hopefully it fills my tires fast like it should, had quite a few leaking spots before.

I intend on taping up or looming the wires once everything is in good working order here, so its a bit uglier than the end product, hopefully. I didn't end up installing a switch since it's so easy to pull the wires off the pressure switch in the manifold. I should probably do a better job taping them later too.
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Been busy with important but unglamorous prep work for Moab.

In the truck, I flushed the coolant and brake fluid, so now all the juices in there are new since I picked it up except front diff, which isn't really necessary since it runs in 2wd most of the time.

You might only be using 2WD but you have no hubs so the prop shafts are always turning which is turning things inside your diff just like your TJ so you want to make sure it's got oil.
 
First test drive completed, about 50mi, some dirt road, some 45mph, some 60mph. Pulls just fine

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I'll be putting the camper on the truck today and taking the full setup out over the weekend!

The duct tape rides again!!!!!!!