2000 Engine Replacement in Garage

Hey fellas! I replaced the cracked head in my 2000 Sahara with a TUPY 3 years ago. Previous owners didn’t take care of it so it’s been slappin and having low oil pressure. Add in a healthy dose of rod knock when started and it was time.

I’ve been tearing down the engine in my garage the last 2 days, head just went to the same shop as 3 years ago this morning for a cleaning and check.

I bought a remanufactured short block from Titan motors and have it on the stand right now as I prep it and get ready to pull the old block.

I’ll update with more as the work goes on but figured if anyone is curious about Titan fire away with any questions and I’ll answer what I can while it’s on the stand.

Quick question - You guys think this was leaking? Naw…


Out with the old


Sunday vibe: Sanding paint off the front of the new short block and cleaning up covers and bolts.

Lining up the torque converter and driveplate is a REAL pain in the ass. I about gave up and pulled the transmission but eventually got it on my third attempt using a floor jack to maneuver the bell housing, hoist to dangle the engine, and muscling up on the things from underneath to pull them in alignment.

Here’s a tip that I hope helps someone: If you install the block first, then attach the head in the engine bay, it makes getting to those top two bell housing bolts significantly easier. Why is that a big deal? Trust me… IYKYK…



For whatever reason the oil seal on the timing cover is impossible to remove. Never had this much difficulty with any other vehicle. Any tips out there?

OldBuzzard said:

What have you tried? I would try ChannelLocks or ViceGrips with a good hard twist, destroying the seal, kind of peeling it out of there.

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Definitely tried that. Can only tear little chunks of rubber off while the whole of it stays put. I’ve tried pry tools, vice grips, screw drive and 2lb sledge hammer… it won’t let go.

OldBuzzard said:

Torch?

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Haven’t tried a torch but at this point I got pieces of this thing flying at my face. Something is up!

Okay turns out I had to just really really really beat the heck out of it. Good to go! Never seen an oil seal stuck like that… wild!

OldBuzzard said:

Glad you got it. I had one like that once, it acted like it was welded in.

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Exactly what I was thinking too. I was wondering what the hell someone did to the thing but yup it was just that tight.

More updates: Titan did not include the main bearing cap girdle. I called and they said don’t because the girdles don’t fit on the strokers, but I could transfer it over if I want. I did just because why not? Maybe it doesn’t do a lot but I figure if it was there why not keep it.

In addition, we’ve got the timing cover and tension, oil pump, water pump all installed. The head is chilling on top and getting bolted when my Loctite 592 shows up. I have an old bottle but figured this job is worth the couple bucks for a fresh one. Today will be the harmonic balancer, oil pan, head bolts, new pushrods and rockers, who knows what else I can get to. Maybe all of it!

Here’s something interesting about gaskets. I purchased a Felpro kit which is my usual go-to, but also got a kit made by TF Victor (Mexican manufacturer, seems pretty legit from their website) which came with the block purchase from Titan. Seems decent enough but maybe not premium. It’s interesting how components made by the same gasket manufacturer can show up with various versions and qualities across kits.

Check out this example: Gasket included with my Mopar water pump on the left, TF Victor water pump gasket on the right. The Mopar has the red bead as described in the factory service manual. The other is from the same manufacturer but just paper. Also funny that the Haynes manual says add RTV to the paper gasket but FSM says install dry. I always lean to what the FSM prescribes.



Similar situation here. Felpro MLS head gasket on top vs TF Victor MLS head gasket on bottom. The TF Victor seems okay I guess, but look how much more magic blue “sealing” coating is on the Felpro. The Felpro also has more raised areas which seems would do an even better job of separating water, oil, and combustion chambers from the bolts etc. I’ve only ever bought Felpro for all my vehicles because I’d rather not wonder, but it’s nice to know you are in fact getting something different a for a few bucks more.

New oil pan is installed as well, the old one was flaking paint off. The old valve cover is just as bad so maybe I need to find a new one. Brand new push rods, rocker arms and pivots from Melling going in as well. Because good, lubed up parts are important!

Owe you guys an update. Spent the last two days assembling the exhaust, intake, rats nest of wire harness and shit in the driver side and getting it up and running. Flat head bit from my snap on screw driver worked great in a power drill for a bootleg oil pump priming tool.





No 10w30 VR1 in my area so the first oil is Castrol conventional with ZDDP additive. Broke it in at 2000rpms for the first 30min then took it for a cruise. It runs great and don’t think I’ve ever heard a 4.0 so quiet! I think it was worth the effort and peace of mind keeping my TUPY head and building the engine at home.

So far with 100 miles on it, seems like the short block from Titan was a good buy. Looks like Titan just started offering a TUPY reman upgrade… go figure! I’ll report back at first oil change at 500 miles!

Feels good to have a TJ with ZERO miles on the engine. Time for a beer!