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FarFire70

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I'm planning to install a second OEM PDC under the hood that is powered from the battery via a key-on/acc activated relay.

As I'm thinking this through, I'm curious what everyone has for accessories that don't require key-on and/or key-acc.

I figure I'll add circuits to the original PDC for any non-key-powered accessories. I'm just struggling to think what that would be...

—-

My key-on accessories that will go in the new PDC include:
  • Seat Heaters
  • CB radio
  • Hardtop defroster (get the fuse out from the driver footwell)
  • Hardtop wiper (get the fuse out of the driver footwell)
  • Air Compressor
  • Rear Locker
  • Activation power to relays added to protect blower motor switch

I know it's not many accessories, but I figure more to come. I was going with a Blue Sea fuse block but, since I've gotten more into pinning connectors, I like a clean install and was underwhelmed with aftermarket options. So I went PDC (overkill for sure); plus, I can use the relays within as well.
 

A solenoid is probably what you're looking for which will handle a higher capacity.

My key-on accessories that will go in the new PDC include:
  • Seat Heaters
  • CB radio
  • Hardtop defroster (get the fuse out from the driver footwell)
  • Hardtop wiper (get the fuse out of the driver footwell)
  • Air Compressor
  • Rear Locker
  • Activation power to relays added to protect blower motor switch

I personally placed a fuse block inside for running inside thing. Much less wiring that way.

Most of your things will require their own relays to run off switches anyway (most switches are rated for about 4-5 amps). Why not just run power to those switches via ACC and then you don't have to worry about the ACC controlled fuse block?
 
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None of my accessories in my Jeep use direct battery power. Even my under hood LED lights use an ACC switch. I would much rather use a flashlight at night than drain my battery, looking under my hood. I just don't want to risk draining my battery. It defeats the purpose of fixing your Jeep, if you drain your battery and it can't start. What's the point of using an air compressor to inflate your tires, if you drain your battery and it can't start? A Winch is a heavy current draw, and it would definitely be ACC switched. I have six off road lights, and they are all ACC switched. I do have a heavy duty Alternator, and this is the most important for accessories. A heavy duty Alternator was standard for my AC system when I purchased my Wrangler.
 
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A solenoid is probably what you're looking for which will handle a higher capacity.

I picked this up for the original Blue Sea plans.

https://www.amazon.com/Support-Heavy-Split-Charge-Relay/dp/B012N09BFE?tag=wranglerorg-20

It's a 100A relay that I would tie into the ignition ACC/ON.

Maybe I need to re-think higher amperage options since I have the PDC and don't want the relay to become the limiter over time.

Have suggestions on the solenoid idea you recommended or a direct to point my research?

I personally placed a fuse block inside for running inside thing. Much less wiring that way.

Most of your things will require their own relays to run off switches anyway (most switches are rated for about 4-5 amps). Why not just run power to those switches via ACC and then you don't have to worry about the ACC controlled fuse block?

Agree 100% that the switches are activating relays for many of these accessories. I figure I can use relays within the PDC for short wirings. Also may be able to wire multiple switches off a single fuse to cut down wire runs (with the right fuse amperage and wire gauge).

I was looking at how the PDC and fuse block is wired up. Looks like PDC is always powered. Fuse block is the key-on/acc to the switches for those fused/relayed circuits.

Running through the Service Manual for ideas from the OEM wiring, I ran the Blower Motor & Cigar Lighter.

PXL_20240516_022910686.jpg


PXL_20240516_022925875.jpg


In addition to wanting a cleaner install than the Blue Sea block, I started to realize I needed a relay bank solution, which is why I started thinking the PDC as an option to consolidate things.

I do agree that there would be some more wiring require to get to the switches and then wire to the actual accessory. I'm open to ideas if I'm overly complicating things that can be simplified.

—-

To your idea on the ACC, I don't want to keep pulling off the existing ACC lines that I've tapped (and really want to remove those I previously tapped into the ACC as I do this job) because I don't know how much draw I've started to add to the OEM circuits. If I go this route, I separate new accessories from the OEM harness (mostly - still need to tap the ignition wire to power on the PDC).
 
None of my accessories in my Jeep use direct battery power. Even my under hood LED lights use an ACC switch. I would much rather use a flashlight at night than drain my battery, looking under my hood. I just don't want to risk draining my battery. It defeats the purpose of fixing your Jeep, if you drain your battery and it can't start. A Winch is a heavy current draw, and it would definitely be ACC switched. I have six off road lights, and they are all ACC switched. I do have a heavy duty Alternator, and this is the most important for accessories. A heavy duty Alternator was standard for my AC system when I purchased my Wrangler.

I upgraded to the 160A Durango alternator during my recent upgrades in the past year.

Agree with you on not needing a draw you forget about. I figure the headlights and stock OEM fog lights can give off light if I'm assisting a forward Jeep and need someone to run back to throw on additional light when I can't reach my key (example - I threw on headlights/high beams & fogs when we were doing a Dana 35 axle exchange in diminishing sunlight; someone else could do that if I was under the Jeep in a similar situation).

I've also drain a battery forgetting the headlight switch on doorless day too... so that's a part of my start to this thread on why I'd want a non-keyed accessory. - But I've been surprised of a blink spot from this community before...
 
Look into Switch Pros and Switch Works. Expensive, but that'll simplify things for you if it's within your budget.
 
Look into Switch Pros and Switch Works. Expensive, but that'll simplify things for you if it's within your budget.

Yeah, I've seen the Switch Pros. I get why folks like it. I can't bring myself to dive into that. Mostly - because I want to have my own switch choices and locations. That's the biggest draw against those options for me...
 
I upgraded to the 160A Durango alternator during my recent upgrades in the past year.

Agree with you on not needing a draw you forget about. I figure the headlights and stock OEM fog lights can give off light if I'm assisting a forward Jeep and need someone to run back to throw on additional light when I can't reach my key (example - I threw on headlights/high beams & fogs when we were doing a Dana 35 axle exchange in diminishing sunlight; someone else could do that if I was under the Jeep in a similar situation).

I've also drain a battery forgetting the headlight switch on doorless day too... so that's a part of my start to this thread on why I'd want a non-keyed accessory. - But I've been surprised of a blink spot from this community before...

In any assist, it is best to start your vehicle. I've seen people jump start another vehicle with their vehicle off, and they look at me like I'm stupid when I tell them that they should start their vehicle. Their argument was, "what if the battery connections are wrong", and I short out my wiring? My response is that you shouldn't be assisting, if you don't even know how to properly connect your battery terminals. If I plug an air compressor into my cigarette lighter, I start my Jeep. I also make sure that all my safety systems are working, like my notification beep that my headlights are on. When I leave my Jeep, I make sure that it is dark, inside and outside. The worst thing I could do is run down my battery. I have AAA, but I hate waiting hours for them.
 
I have a lot of stuff wired straight to the battery through a fuse block. I also have a deep cycle Optima Yellow Top battery. Everything from lights to seat heaters to USB ports. I can remember to turn stuff off and no matter what I want light, heat and the ability to charge things to always work.

-Mac
 
The only device I have added that has constant power is the GMRS radio. I'm ok with this because the power draw is very low.

In the past, I had both the seat heaters and the York clutch on constant power, forgot to turn one or the other off, and came back the next day to a dead battery. Those quickly got rewired to a ignition switched relay.
 
In any assist, it is best to start your vehicle. I've seen people jump start another vehicle with their vehicle off, and they look at me like I'm stupid when I tell them that they should start their vehicle. Their argument was, "what if the battery connections are wrong", and I short out my wiring? My response is that you shouldn't be assisting, if you don't even know how to properly connect your battery terminals. If I plug an air compressor into my cigarette lighter, I start my Jeep. I also make sure that all my safety systems are working, like my notification beep that my headlights are on. When I leave my Jeep, I make sure that it is dark, inside and outside. The worst thing I could do is run down my battery. I have AAA, but I hate waiting hours for them.

To be sure we're talking the same thing, any assist would be mechanical like working on a diff and needing more lighting. So asking someone to jump in and flip on the lights.

If you're reference a battery jump - I agree, you better know things are hooked up right or stay on the sideline.

For the headlights, sometimes you head to work in darkness and arrive in daylight and just forget. I plan to minimize other accessories that I could do the same. But curious if there's a blind spot I have where the vehicle key-off makes sense for an accessory.
 
I have a lot of stuff wired straight to the battery through a fuse block. I also have a deep cycle Optima Yellow Top battery. Everything from lights to seat heaters to USB ports. I can remember to turn stuff off and no matter what I want light, heat and the ability to charge things to always work.

-Mac

You're better at double checking things are off than me... ;) I try, but I'm human. I know I'd leave on a seat heater and kill a battery if I direct wired it.

TJ is a causal driver now and the daily drivers with seat heaters that auto-off when parked condition me some to forget to double check on the TJ (when they get installed). I still grab the headlight stalk on habit when the door are off to double check, but that's fallible too.

USB plugs make sense. I plan install a set and will add those to the PDC (always on) so good call there.

The only device I have added that has constant power is the GMRS radio. I'm ok with this because the power draw is very low.

In the past, I had both the seat heaters and the York clutch on constant power, forgot to turn one or the other off, and came back the next day to a dead battery. Those quickly got rewired to a ignition switched relay.

I can get something low draw like the GMRS. If you drop your keys in a mud hole, you can still call out to help (if out of cell range).

I developed the habit of always carrying a spare key in the console when off-roading, just in case of this key-loss situation.

Wouldn't think a York clutch would kill a battery but I never figured the amperage drawn for one (yet....).
 
Because my TJ and YJ sit for weeks at a time I have a master switch on the batteries. GMRS is direct wired to the battery because it’s rated at 50 watts.
 
For the headlights, sometimes you head to work in darkness and arrive in daylight and just forget. I plan to minimize other accessories that I could do the same. But curious if there's a blind spot I have where the vehicle key-off makes sense for an accessory.
No doubt. I've had that problem too. But, on my 97 TJ, and I assume all TJ's(correct me if I'm wrong), there is a loud warning chime, if you leave your lights on. This is why I like to make sure all my electrical warnings are working on my TJ. If you leave the lights on and turn off the key, a loud warning chime will sound. You have to turn the key off, before you remove it. The instant you turn off the key with the headlights on, a loud warning chime will sound. I took my Jeep to the mechanic when mine wasn't working and I got it fixed. Sure enough, within weeks it sounded, when I forgot to turn off my headlights. Then, one day, a couple months later, I was in a rush and I noticed it didn't sound. I immediately took it back to my mechanic and he said something came loose and he fixed it. Occasionally, I'll check it by intentionally leaving my lights on and turning off the key. This way, I know that it is working, in case I do it unintentionally. Don't all TJ'S have this headlight warning chime? Or maybe, yours isn't working, like mine wasn't working. Currently, I'm working to fix my seatbelt warning chime. But, my mechanic said the problem is in my instrument cluster and they want $399 dollars for a warranty replacement as mine isn't fixable. I just have too many other more serious financial obligations right now to worry about it, like death wobble now on my stock TJ. Ugh.
 
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But curious if there's a blind spot I have where the vehicle key-off makes sense for an accessory.

The only device I can think of that I’d like on when the Jeep is OFF is a 12v for charging a phone. Everything else I want on ACC.
 
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No doubt. I've had that problem too. But, on my 97 TJ, and I assume all TJ's(correct me if I'm wrong), there is a loud warning chime, if you leave your lights on. This is why I like to make sure all my electrical warnings are working on my TJ. If you leave the lights on and turn off the key, a loud warning chime will sound. You have to turn the key off, before you remove it. The instant you turn off the key with the headlights on, a loud warning chime will sound. I took my Jeep to the mechanic when mine wasn't working and I got it fixed. Sure enough, within weeks it sounded, when I forgot to turn off my headlights. Then, one day, a couple months later, I was in a rush and I noticed it didn't sound. I immediately took it back to my mechanic and he said something came loose and he fixed it. Occasionally, I'll check it by intentionally leaving my lights on and turning off the key. This way, I know that it is working, in case I do it unintentionally. Don't all TJ'S have this headlight warning chime? Or maybe, yours isn't working, like mine wasn't working. Currently, I'm working to fix my seatbelt warning chime. But, my mechanic said the problem is in my instrument cluster and they want $399 dollars for a warranty replacement as mine isn't fixable. I just have too many other more serious financial obligations right now to worry about it, like death wobble now on my stock TJ. Ugh.

Yes, warning chime sounds when the lights are on, keys are out, and the doors are open.

This is when I'm most likely to leave the lights on since I have a switch in place to disconnect the fuse when the doors are off to trick the Jeep into thinking the doors are on and closed.
 
Yes, warning chime sounds when the lights are on, keys are out, and the doors are open.

This is when I'm most likely to leave the lights on since I have a switch in place to disconnect the fuse when the doors are off to trick the Jeep into thinking the doors are on and closed.

I don't believe that is how the chime works. I think it chimes when the key is off, and the headlights are on, before you even pull them out, which will work even if you defeat the interior lights.