Sab-a-dab-a-doo! The back-country LJ build has officially started

Well, y'all have me seriously reconsidering the tank decision. Mr. Blaine even called me last night to make sure I gave it adequate consideration (thanks, Mr. Blaine!) I knew when I bought the York that I didn't want it running every time the lockers were engaged, and especially didn't want it to run often if there's a leak. That is why I bought the tank (and all the plumbing, too :(). At the time, it did occur to me that all the additional fittings, as well as the tank itself, were possible leak points, and I considered that a drawback, but acceptable.

Being a reformed race engineer, I'm much more weight-conscious than most people because, when you cut a vehicle's weight, you get a triple-shot - faster acceleration, faster deceleration, and better handling (generally.) There are very few other things you can do that help all three. I have several scales I use to measure the weight of every component I'm adding or removing from the LJ, I have a spreadsheet that tracks those items (what can I say - I love spreadsheets!) I currently have 406 rows (and growing) in that spreadsheet!

I bring up weight because I overlooked something with the tank decision. I wasn't aware of the locker-only pump from ARB. I had seen discussions on here about using a dedicated locker pump for simplicity and having some redundancy with a larger pump onboard, too. However, being mindful of weight, I looked at the weight of the other single-motor ARB pump (just looked again - 7.7lb), and went with the 1 gallon aluminum tank because it was considerably less weight - about 4 lb with hoses and fittings. However, I just looked up the weight of that locker-only pump, and it's only 3.3lb. Of course, most companies list inaccurate weights (not always lower than actual), but it's about the same weight as the tank, and there are fewer leak points. And, I can set up the LJ with the York as a backup air source. Win-win!

Mr. Blaine also told me that the ARB locker-only pump also has a very small tank on it (I think he said, "about the size of a tea cup.") I presume that's to keep the duty cycle manageable in the event of a small leak in the system, similar to the water pump in my well tank house here at home. That's another plus for the ARB.

So, I'm close now to changing my mind on the tank. Thanks all for the input - exactly why I asked for feedback. Any last comments before I officially change my mind?

One other change suggested by Mr. Blaine was to go with a Switch Pro switch controller system instead of the secondary PDC. The reasons I liked the secondary PDC with Carling switches is the ergonomics and the easy replacement of failed components (fuses and relays). The Carling switches offer great visual and tactile feedback in a moving vehicle. The simplicity of wiring with a switch controller system wasn't lost on me in my initial decision, but what was lost was the size and (hopefully) weight savings. I say "hopefully" regarding the weight savings because it's surprising that Switch Pro, a company selling to race teams, doesn't list weights on their web site that I could find. I suspect it's considerably lighter than the sum of the parts of a secondary PDC system (switches, panels, wiring, and PDC.) Regarding space, the Bussmann PDC is quite large, taking up valuable space. I currently have it mounted on the left inner fender, between the washer bottle and the cruise control actuator - right where the steering assist hydraulic reservoir should be. If I go with the Switch Pro system, I would gain that space back for the reservoir.

Anyone have any other input on Switch Pro vs. Bussmann PDC (specifically with regards to ergonomics)? Am I missing any relevant considerations?
 
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A dual ARB also fits on the ABS tray, and is a better option if combining locker operation and tire fillup.

Nope. The big dual, while it can be mounted under the hood should not be. While it is reasonably weather resistant, the lifespan will be shortened considerably if you subject it to the underhood enviroment.

Anyone with an ARB should use the little pump regardless of any other air needs. It is stand alone, very simple, plug and play, and does not even require a relay to run. Redundancy is great in this situation and the penalty is very small.
 
Well, y'all have me seriously reconsidering the tank decision. Mr. Blaine even called me last night to make sure I gave it adequate consideration (thanks, Mr. Blaine!) I knew when I bought the York that I didn't want it running every time the lockers were engaged, and especially didn't want it to run often if there's a leak. That is why I bought the tank (and all the plumbing, too :(). At the time, it did occur to me that all the additional fittings, as well as the tank itself, were possible leak points, and I considered that a drawback, but acceptable.

Being a reformed race engineer, I'm much more weight-conscious than most people because, when you cut a vehicle's weight, you get a triple-shot - faster acceleration, faster deceleration, and better handling (generally.) There are very few other things you can do that help all three. I have several scales I use to measure the weight of every component I'm adding or removing from the LJ, I have a spreadsheet that tracks those items (what can I say - I love spreadsheets!) I currently have 406 rows (and growing) in that spreadsheet!

I bring up weight because I overlooked something with the tank decision. I wasn't aware of the locker-only pump from ARB. I had seen discussions on here about using a dedicated locker pump for simplicity and having some redundancy with a larger pump onboard, too. However, being mindful of weight, I looked at the weight of the other single-motor ARB pump (just looked again - 7.7lb), and went with the 1 gallon aluminum tank because it was considerably less weight - about 4 lb with hoses and fittings. However, I just looked up the weight of that locker-only pump, and it's only 3.3lb. Of course, most companies list inaccurate weights (not always lower than actual), but it's about the same weight as the tank, and there are fewer leak points. And, I can set up the LJ with the York as a backup air source. Win-win!

Mr. Blaine also told me that the ARB locker-only pump also has a very small tank on it (I think he said, "about the size of a tea cup.") I presume that's to keep the duty cycle manageable in the event of a small leak in the system, similar to the water pump in my well tank house here at home. That's another plus for the ARB.

So, I'm close now to changing my mind on the tank. Thanks all for the input - exactly why I asked for feedback. Any last comments before I officially change my mind?

One other change suggested by Mr. Blaine was to go with a Switch Pro switch controller system instead of the secondary PDC. The reasons I liked the secondary PDC with Carling switches is the ergonomics and the easy replacement of failed components (fuses and relays). The Carling switches offer great visual and tactile feedback in a moving vehicle. The simplicity of wiring with a switch controller system wasn't lost on me in my initial decision, but what was lost was the size and (hopefully) weight savings. I say "hopefully" regarding the weight savings because it's surprising that Switch Pro, a company selling to race teams, doesn't list weights on their web site that I could find. I suspect it's considerably lighter than the sum of the parts of a secondary PDC system (switches, panels, wiring, and PDC.) Regarding space, the Bussmann PDC is quite large, taking up valuable space. I currently have it mounted on the left inner fender, between the washer bottle and the cruise control actuator - right where the steering assist hydraulic reservoir should be. If I go with the Switch Pro system, I would gain that space back for the reservoir.

Anyone have any other input on Switch Pro vs. Bussmann PDC (specifically with regards to ergonomics)? Am I missing any relevant considerations?

If you want a weight, I can get you one here in a few. After I installed one and saw the brutal simplicity and elegance of the design, one came up for sale locally and my dollar bills almost caught on fire due to how fast I whipped them out of my pocket to hand to the seller.
 
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As part of my highline, I am in the process of eliminating my second PDC from an XJ and changing to the SwitchPros controller.
IMG_20141207_155533.jpg

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There are several reasons for this. Space efficiency was a major one. There isn't room for two factory PDC boxes in a highline. Related to space is the reduction in clutter with the wire management.

And while I do prefer the aesthetics of the Carling switches over the SwitchPros control panel, over the last 8-9 years of messing with switches, I have not found consistently reliable Carling style switches. Currently, half of mine work. Meaning I do not have functioning aux lights. My expectation is that the SwitchPros will be reliable.

The SwitchPros is expensive. But after some quick math adding up everything I would be buying to rebuild and reconfigure my existing auxiliary PDC, the SwitchPros ended up not being much more of an expense on an already expensive project.
 
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If you want a weight, I can get you one here in a few. After I installed one and saw the brutal simplicity and elegance of the design, one came up for sale locally and my dollar bills almost caught on fire due to how fast I whipped them out of my pocket to hand to the seller.

Why do you prefer switchpros over something like Auxbeam?

Auxbeam provides terminals for the functions so they can easily be swapped out if desired which is one of the things that has been beneficial with my older sPod. Auxbeam I believe is much cheaper.

Is there something I’m missing?

1714318329587.png
 
Why do you prefer switchpros over something like Auxbeam?

Auxbeam provides terminals for the functions so they can easily be swapped out if desired which is one of the things that has been beneficial with my older sPod. Auxbeam I believe is much cheaper.

Is there something I’m missing?

View attachment 522476
Mainly due to the AUX being the amateur copy of the professional version that was designed for race cars in the offroad world. The amperage functions are programmable and built into the control box along with the relays. I've always ignored paying any attention to the Switch Pro stuff due to cost. Then I installed one and I'll never do anything else after that. But, I have a very high appreciation for local folks who are innovative with very high quality products and who also do their manufacturing here.

For Scott- 3 lbs. 4 and 1/2 ounces.
1714321267004.png

Relay and fuse box- 11.6 ounces
1714321372506.png

And, some Bussman relay and fuse boxes if anyone is in need. I'll sell them for 1/2 of what they are retail since I will never use them.
1714321513762.png
 
Mainly due to the AUX being the amateur copy of the professional version that was designed for race cars in the offroad world. The amperage functions are programmable and built into the control box along with the relays. I've always ignored paying any attention to the Switch Pro stuff due to cost. Then I installed one and I'll never do anything else after that. But, I have a very high appreciation for local folks who are innovative with very high quality products and who also do their manufacturing here.

For Scott- 3 lbs. 4 and 1/2 ounces.
View attachment 522500
Relay and fuse box- 11.6 ounces
View attachment 522501
And, some Bussman relay and fuse boxes if anyone is in need. I'll sell them for 1/2 of what they are retail since I will never use them.
View attachment 522502

Have you used an sPod and if so, how would you compare it to the Switch Pro?
 
For Scott- 3 lbs. 4 and 1/2 ounces.
Relay and fuse box- 11.6 ounces

Did the 3 lbs. 4 and 1/2 ounces include the relay and fuse box? Even if not, if the whole system weighs about 4 lb, that's a huge weight savings for me. I haven't weighed everything, yet, but for the secondary PDC system so far, my estimate for the total system is over 7 lb.
 
Did the 3 lbs. 4 and 1/2 ounces include the relay and fuse box? Even if not, if the whole system weighs about 4 lb, that's a huge weight savings for me. I haven't weighed everything, yet, but for the secondary PDC system so far, my estimate for the total system is over 7 lb.

That included everything that comes in the box including the box.
 
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Have you used an sPod and if so, how would you compare it to the Switch Pro?

I would neither take one for free nor install a free one. I've made a point of asking every owner of one that is under the hood of any rig I've worked on how many times they have replaced the relay board in the box. The answer is never zero. I started doing that after a few friends complained about having to replace the underhood part. Not for me.

But, there is no comparison if you look at the relay and fuse box I have laying on the scale. That is the equivalent to the relay box sPod has you mount under the hood. Equivalent part.
 
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I would neither take one for free nor install a free one. I've made a point of asking every owner of one that is under the hood of any rig I've worked on how many times they have replaced the relay board in the box. The answer is never zero. I started doing that after a few friends complained about having to replace the underhood part. Not for me.

But, there is no comparison if you look at the relay and fuse box I have laying on the scale. That is the equivalent to the relay box sPod has you mount under the hood. Equivalent part.

It might perform the same function, but its not equivalent... :)
 
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I would neither take one for free nor install a free one. I've made a point of asking every owner of one that is under the hood of any rig I've worked on how many times they have replaced the relay board in the box. The answer is never zero. I started doing that after a few friends complained about having to replace the underhood part. Not for me.

But, there is no comparison if you look at the relay and fuse box I have laying on the scale. That is the equivalent to the relay box sPod has you mount under the hood. Equivalent part.

Well that makes the decision harder.

What I like about the sPod is the overhead switch panel. Clean and out of sight.
 
Wow. I think I'm sold based on weight alone...

If it matters, that also includes 18" of very nice wire for each of the 4 single outputs and 2 for each of the 4 double outputs. Also in there is the battery feed #4 with main fuse.
1714333918655.png
 
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Today's progress:
  1. Decided to dump the 1 gallon aluminum air tank and go with the ARB Mini Compressor (build list in Post 1 updated)
  2. Decided to dump the Bussmann secondary PDC and get a Switch Pros 12-switch system (build list in Post 1 updated)
  3. Pulled the fuel tank to fix a cracked filler neck (more on that below)
Thanks for helping me spend more money on parts! :)

So, regarding the filler neck. I don't recall, but when I installed the body lift, I must have broken the filler neck. I know that I knew I had to disconnect the filler from the body before lifting it, and I don't recall forgetting to do so, but that's the only explanation for this:

Broken Neck.jpg


It's almost completely broken off! I'm hoping that a two-step repair process of plastic-welding (I believe it's LDPE - Low Density PolyEthylene), followed by using a two-part aircraft fuel tank sealer will work, since new tanks don't exist, and used ones are pricey.

Has anyone successfully repaired similar damage?