Thinking of going with a 2" OME lift
- Thread starter 01saharatj
- Start date
I wouldn't bother. You can achieve the same result with much better shocks by going with @CodaMan's setup:
1) Rancho RS5000X Shocks 0-2" (2 Front) — RS55128
2) Rancho RS5000X Shocks 0-2" (2 Rear) — RS55240
3) Pro Comp 2" Springs (Front) — EXP55297
4) Pro Comp 2" Springs (Rear) — EXP55298
5) OME Rear Track Bar Reloaction Bracket — ARB FKWTJ02
6) Daystar.75" Spacers — KJ09108BK (note: only used above front springs for leveling)
That will give you better shocks than the OME Nitrocharger Sport shocks, and the springs are just as good as well. In addition, it will come out to be a lot cheaper as well.
Skip the OME lift kit and go this route instead
I know this is an old thread. Can anybody comment on whether a transfer case drop is recommended or required with this setup if SYE is not installed?
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It depends on the Jeep. I've done 2" lifts with no vibes. If you get them, you can drop the t-case just enough to get rid of them with thick washers or do a MML.
deadbeat son
TJ Addict
Not necessarily, it varies from vehicle to vehicle. I installed OME 2.5" springs and shocks on my '02 without dropping the t-case or installing an SYE and it had no vibes.
The OME springs on an 04 is actually what I am wanting to go with. I guess a person could just do the springs and shocks first and see if there are any vibrations before dropping t-case or installing SYE or MML.
Dropping t-case seems like the easiest, but also has the worst outcome by reducing ground clearance.
SYE is probably the best solution, but also most expensive.
And MML has some additional benefits like lifting oil pan up a bit.
Tough call which way to go. I'd hate to install lift and then find out I have vibration issue without having parts ready. But don't want to order additional unnecessary parts if they aren't needed.
Please fill in your Jeep details in your profile. That way we would know if you have a TJ or LJ (Unlimited). An LJ won't need and SYE or t-case drop for a 2" lift.
Yes, install the lift first, and see what you get. A 2" lift doesn't necessarily give you exactly a 2" lift. And you never know about vibes until you get the lift on. And to get the best length on your DC driveshaft with your SYE (if needed) is to measure after the lift is on.
Install the lift and drive it. At 2" you're right on the edge of where you may get vibes, so if you do, they probably won't be severe. You can make a cheap t-case drop with washers or scrap metal bar stock, drive it that way until you can get SYE and DC DS.
Yes, install the lift first, and see what you get. A 2" lift doesn't necessarily give you exactly a 2" lift. And you never know about vibes until you get the lift on. And to get the best length on your DC driveshaft with your SYE (if needed) is to measure after the lift is on.
Install the lift and drive it. At 2" you're right on the edge of where you may get vibes, so if you do, they probably won't be severe. You can make a cheap t-case drop with washers or scrap metal bar stock, drive it that way until you can get SYE and DC DS.
Profile filled in now. Thanks. 2004 Jeep TJ Sport Rocky Mountain Edition, 5 speed manual.
I appreciate the advise. I'll go with lift first, assess, and then continue with corrections if needed.
Front and rear adjustable track bars would be needed no matter what in order to center the axles again correct, even with a 2"?
I left both of mine alone when I had a 2" lift. My axle shifting 1/2-3/4" didn't bother me.
p.s. You can get a rear relocation bracket for $25.
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Like Boog said, you can run the stock trackbars.
At 2" lift, I kept my OEM front trackbar for a year, until it developed a squishy axle-end bushing and death wobble. I replaced it with a JKS adjustable trackbar.
SPECWAR
TJ Enthusiast
Met a guy with a beautiful 2002 at the Hartville Jeep Fest last week that had the perfect stance. I asked about it and he said he installed 2-1/2” Rough Country springs and shocks, and the 33-12.50-15 tires, and it rides and handles great. Did not need TC lowered nor any other adjustments.
I wouldn't bother. You can achieve the same result with much better shocks by going with @CodaMan's setup:
1) Rancho RS5000X Shocks 0-2" (2 Front) — RS55128
2) Rancho RS5000X Shocks 0-2" (2 Rear) — RS55240
3) Pro Comp 2" Springs (Front) — EXP55297
4) Pro Comp 2" Springs (Rear) — EXP55298
5) OME Rear Track Bar Reloaction Bracket — ARB FKWTJ02
6) Daystar.75" Spacers — KJ09108BK (note: only used above front springs for leveling)
That will give you better shocks than the OME Nitrocharger Sport shocks, and the springs are just as good as well. In addition, it will come out to be a lot cheaper as well.
Skip the OME lift kit and go this route instead
How about bump stop extensions? Are front and rear needed? If so any recommendations for this application? From what I can see, OME is only making rear extensions, any reason they wouldn't offer a front for their 2-2.5" springs? Would front extensions only be necessary with sway bar links disconnected?
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Yes, you’ll need to add bump stop. You always need to adjust bump stop when new springs and shocks are installed. Drilled hockey pucks are all you need.
Yeti08
Member
i went with a MML instead of a T case drop. The tough part was getting the fan shroud to stop hitting the fan.
Compare the compressed length of new and old shocks and adjust bumpstops(and or shock choice) accordingly
I'm on my second set of Pirelli tires, on our 2012 Grand Cherokee. Just turned 98k miles. They seem to be more of a street tire than off-road, although I did drive across the I-40 median in Arkansas one trip where there was a huge delay. Google maps found us an alternate route and away we went. Understand everyone else sat there for four more hours. BTW, there were several stuck vehicles in that median which was like a little valley and was all muddy. I had no problems driving through it. These tires are great in the rain; I have never had problems.