06 red LJ

The joy of vendor incompatibility continues. Underground Fabworks belly pan, ostensibly one not requirimg MML and stuff, happily interferes with heavy duty tranny pan from ATC diesel. Need to decide on a course of action. Which would also allow for motor skid plate.

Urghh.

IMG_8456.jpeg
 
Added washers on the transmission mount bolts and to the plate between them to get some extra clearance. Hopefully I don’t need to go to raised motor mounts and adding 1” body lift instead of my 1/2” one.
IMG_8470.jpeg

With my rear axle Dana 60 being high pinion and with my extra short SYE kit driveline should be fine.
 
Had terrible time trying to mount pan until I realized that I have changed motor mount when everything was disconnected and my driveline was not centered. Unbolted motor mounts and used a bottle jack to push transmission side ways a bit and everything aligned and bolted perfectly.
I will need to remove belly pan again to drill to attach motor skid, will die grind very end of cooling fins on the oil pan, that should give plenty of clearance for the long run.
 
Those oily stains are from CorrosionX HD. I put this shit on everything after putting together.

That said I marvel at complete lack of rust on my LJ. I am glad I found one from San Diego. Not Midwest. And all stock and not wheeled. It had a boring life growing up.
 
Last edited:
If it makes you feel any better I had to clearance my skid also. I have a 46RE behind a Dodge Magnum V-8 and a 1.25" body lift.
I do have a 2 quart larger pan on the transmission.

20210918_165005.jpg


20210918_165153.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Offwidth
I have failed to install Undecover Fabworks aluminum engine skid. It is too narrow under my transmission oil pan. Trimming side bends is not an option, as it would not be stiff enough to land on.

If anyone wants a crudely spray painted black aluminum UCF skid with some better hardware included, will give a good price. Shipping charge should be reasonable given it is aluminum.

Improved hardware - as whatever is included with it is some worst I have ever seen. Are bolts made of cheese?

Split washers torqued to 35ft-lb not supposed to do that. Replaced with grade 8 from a bolt kit I have.

IMG_8490.jpeg



I will try to put back the short stock if it can protect the transmission oil pan, and investigate what can be done for engine oil pan. Either find a wider steel long one that fits - M.O. R.E. One looks promising. Or just do separate oil pan skid from Metalcloak or someone else.
 
Offwidth said:
I have failed to install Undecover Fabworks aluminum engine skid. It is too narrow under my transmission oil pan. Trimming side bends is not an option, as it would not be stiff enough to land on.

If anyone wants a crudely spray painted black aluminum UCF skid with some better hardware included, will give a good price. Shipping charge should be reasonable given it is aluminum.

Improved hardware - as whatever is included with it is some worst I have ever seen. Are bolts made of cheese?

Split washers torqued to 35ft-lb not supposed to do that. Replaced with grade 8 from a bolt kit I have.

View attachment 500666


I will try to put back the short stock if it can protect the transmission oil pan, and investigate what can be done for engine oil pan. Either find a wider steel long one that fits - M.O. R.E. One looks promising. Or just do separate oil pan skid from Metalcloak or someone else.
Click to expand...

Do you have pics of the engine skid? I have Metal Cloak's skid on my TJ.
 
I am thinking of an idea. Could take stock crossmember, and use this skid with it by cutting side bender around the crossmember and shortening it. It to interfere with the transmission pan. That should be plenty strong with shorter span of 1/4” aluminum.
 
Installed stock transmission skid, obviously being non aftermarket part tons of clearance with large oil pan. Drilled UCF belly skid, tapped it for 10-1.5, used old transmission mount bolts, secured with a flanged nut from the top. Super solid.
Will decide what to do with engine skid later. Need to continue with stuff that will actually make it run.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bobthetj03
I have decided to make use of UCF engine skid by cutting it up and bolting to the stock crossmember. Ridges on the stock transmission skid is about the same as thickness of aluminum so it mates quite seamlessly.

IMG_8513.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Danarch
After a nice 10 days on Maui got back to the project. Had to cut the engine skid a bit shorter. Failed at bending the edge, but decided it it good enough to mate to the stock transmission skid. I guess I am losing 1/3” of clearance but it seems super sturdy and should do for now. Eliminates the shovel effects and will protect oil pan.
Drained oil and installed Fumoto valve for future oil changes.

IMG_8692.jpeg
 
Started on front control arms. On advice from this esteemed forum decided to lube my everything with Redline CL2. Took me 5min per Johnny joint to disassemble, regrease, and reassemble. Took me more time to watch for bad internet advice. Wintools universal press and pull sleeve, Mathew mini pull bar, and a 1-1/8” socket did a quick work of this. I don’t understand people buying $150 Johnny joint special assembly tool.
IMG_8702.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT and L J
Well. Bugger.

It seems that as Rockjock/Currie upper front arms come with 7/16 hardware - requiring reaming axle side bushings - Currie ships their front axle already reamed? And hardware that came with Metalcloak upper arms, of stock size, does not do a tight fit. I don't like it, and I don't want to shim it. I can drill out brackets and mount on thicker bolts.

Another lesson to stick to the same brand as much as possible for parts that bolt together.

So I decided that I also like aesthetics of same style arms, at least in the front, and ordered a pair of double adjustable Rockjock upper control arms (from ExtremeTerrain, as they give a bit of First Responder discount (I am in local SAR)).. Should be here in a couple days.

Will sell for half price my metal cloak to my friends LJ who is still on stock arms. Nothing bad I can say about their fit and finish, and I kinda liked it is bonded rubber - on upper arms I figured will last fine, and be quite and comfy. I will keep the rear upper arms - also aluminum metalcloak.
 
Finally got to remove rear axle. Need to get rid of it. What should I ask for it on Facebook marketplace - I guess some TJ owner can find a use for 06' LJ axle, with disk brakes and all, 120k of stock highway use.... Ideally I want someone to haul away front axle too.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mike_H and Apparition
Top Bottom
Back