No modifications to the upper or lower shock mounts for those black maxx jk shocks. Just a 2” bumpstop extension added
Longwhitejeep LJ, 35's spec build
No modifications to the upper or lower shock mounts for those black maxx jk shocks. Just a 2” bumpstop extension added
Just happen to have my front coils out.
Measured full droop with those jk black max shocks being the downward limit of travel.
The coil height is 21.75” from the axle to the bottom of the stock rubber isolator. So your 22.6” free length TJ Currie 4” coils would stay seated.
Next ran the axle up until the shocks limited the up travel. Looks more like a 2.25” to 2.5” minimum bumpstop extensions is needed to keep the shocks from bottoming out hard.
I wish they had marketed these jk shocks as a 4” lift TJ shock. Hope this helps you
Measured full droop with those jk black max shocks being the downward limit of travel.
The coil height is 21.75” from the axle to the bottom of the stock rubber isolator. So your 22.6” free length TJ Currie 4” coils would stay seated.
Next ran the axle up until the shocks limited the up travel. Looks more like a 2.25” to 2.5” minimum bumpstop extensions is needed to keep the shocks from bottoming out hard.
I wish they had marketed these jk shocks as a 4” lift TJ shock. Hope this helps you
OP
Thanks for the measurements! Good starting point for me. My rough measurements were about the same as yours on the bump stops requirements
OP
Been busy with work and trip to the beach for a car show.
Did manage to get the front together during lunches this week. Black magic tie rod is waiting for paint to dry. Painted and cleaned up the frame, behind the springs mainly, before they go on.
I'll clearance the wheel hub and mount some calipers and throw the springs on to sit the front down.
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OP
16" big brake kit fits stock ravines!
Luckily I didn't have any wheel weights on the outer edge.
@mrblaine said they "should" fit so I'm just here to confirm they do in fact fit if there are no wheel weights near the inside edge of the rim. I have 2 inch spacers for a 3.5" total backspacing. I may switch to 1.5" and they look like they will still clear. It's definitely all the brake you're going to fit in a 15inch wheel.
Dorman H622066 and H622065 brake lines used.
sway loc linkage installed as well. I extended the linkage a bit to hopefully clear at full lock. I may need to shorten once I get my ride height set. They do not hit the grill at the current bumpstop setting which is just the currie setup with all spacers for now.
Hopefully my spicer slinger and baffle show up Monday so can put the rear axle together.
Locker switches mounted and summit seat cushion with the dorman heated seat kit 628-040 done on the drivers side. Low heat setting is not noticeable so I'll just wire the high only using the switches below for a factory look.
Luckily I didn't have any wheel weights on the outer edge.
@mrblaine said they "should" fit so I'm just here to confirm they do in fact fit if there are no wheel weights near the inside edge of the rim. I have 2 inch spacers for a 3.5" total backspacing. I may switch to 1.5" and they look like they will still clear. It's definitely all the brake you're going to fit in a 15inch wheel.
Dorman H622066 and H622065 brake lines used.
sway loc linkage installed as well. I extended the linkage a bit to hopefully clear at full lock. I may need to shorten once I get my ride height set. They do not hit the grill at the current bumpstop setting which is just the currie setup with all spacers for now.
Hopefully my spicer slinger and baffle show up Monday so can put the rear axle together.
Locker switches mounted and summit seat cushion with the dorman heated seat kit 628-040 done on the drivers side. Low heat setting is not noticeable so I'll just wire the high only using the switches below for a factory look.
I just ordered similar seat heater switches. I figured the same thing - you'll run high or none... And those switches look great. Can't wait to install mine.
OP
Awesome!
I couldn't hardly feel the low setting. I figured once I get the trek armor covers back on it would be worse. High wasn't too hot anyway. I do wish the dorman pads were maybe a little bigger but they work and got the wife's approval.
OP
OP
Pinion depth:.063"
Backlash: .006
A little deeper but looks good. Going to take another jump and see what it does but I like this one.
Backlash: .006
A little deeper but looks good. Going to take another jump and see what it does but I like this one.
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OP
OP
Final pattern:
Big thanks to @hosejockey61 for the help confirming my pattern interpretations.
Big thanks to both he and @Blackjack for this regearing on both axles.
Pinion depth: .065
Backlash: .007
Now time to put this thing together, order a rear driveshaft and get back on the road!
Big thanks to @hosejockey61 for the help confirming my pattern interpretations.
Big thanks to both he and @Blackjack for this regearing on both axles.
Pinion depth: .065
Backlash: .007
Now time to put this thing together, order a rear driveshaft and get back on the road!
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OP
I also bent the shifter in the press so don't punch the radio with every shift to 1st or 3rd. New mopar shifter boot installed as well that's been collecting dust for a few years now.
Black magic tie rod installed too. Getting to the home stretch now!
Black magic tie rod installed too. Getting to the home stretch now!
OP
Axle and high pinion Dana 44 cover cleaned up cleaned and painted today.
This cover is only marginally thicker than my oem cover. It came off a 70s ford hpd44 from the junkyard. Looks aftermarket but it will do for now.
This cover is only marginally thicker than my oem cover. It came off a 70s ford hpd44 from the junkyard. Looks aftermarket but it will do for now.
Mines also out of an old Ford truck. The back doesn't see as much abuse as the front. Mines held up well side from the shave that happens.
OP
This is what's going on tonight. I eye balled this based on the currie bump stops at full bump. I figured since they are centered on the spring mounts it had to be close. Only off by a tiny bit. Using @mrblaine method to center double check. I'll center the tie rod this way too.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-align-your-axle-with-an-adjustable-track-bar.16623/
Metal vent tube swapped as well. I forgot to do this during the ring gear. Don't be like me. Do this before the air line is in the way. Part number below. Thanks to @Irun for finding this part number.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-align-your-axle-with-an-adjustable-track-bar.16623/
Metal vent tube swapped as well. I forgot to do this during the ring gear. Don't be like me. Do this before the air line is in the way. Part number below. Thanks to @Irun for finding this part number.
OP
What's the part number on your shock body?
I finally opened up mine and they are the wrong part number in the correct part number box skyjacker box. Very similar size but it's a b8557 and not b8575 like they should be. They are for a full size bronco according to part number.
I started a return with extreme terrain but it's not their fault it seems.
OP
Thanks foe confirming. I have the right shocks then.
Skyjacker confirmed that is just the tube number. The b8557 is a shock with similar dimensions so I would assume they probably use the same tube. Either way they said the shock number and tube number are different.
OP
Rough measurements on these jk shocks show I would need to run the full currie stops with spacers. This allows just shy of 3/4 before the shock fully collapses. It also shows a shaft measurement of 5.125" at rough ride height of 16.5" spring length.
I need to grind the shock mounts some as the control arms hit before full shock droop is reached. 9.125 overall travel out of this current with 4" down which doesn't seem too bad. It would be great to 5 inch down too.
The recommended 4" shocks from skyjacker are b8525. These are roughly 1" less travel but 1 7/8 inches shorter overall. The full compressed length is less than an 1" between the 2 shocks. So I don't think the bumpstop requirement would be much different for either given the shock body lengths. I think I could set it up to use the entire shock travel though with 6" up travel but under 3.7" droop. Droop stops right before the control arms contact and further away from a 50/50 split.
The jk shocks are a hair shorter than the 4inch Ranchos but more travel so that's a plus.
They also look better with the slimmer tube. It seems the tube used is contributing to higher travel in a tighter package.
Relaying all this info in case someone is looking at black maxx shocks as this is another option. Still need to road test them. Hopefully soon!
I need to grind the shock mounts some as the control arms hit before full shock droop is reached. 9.125 overall travel out of this current with 4" down which doesn't seem too bad. It would be great to 5 inch down too.
The recommended 4" shocks from skyjacker are b8525. These are roughly 1" less travel but 1 7/8 inches shorter overall. The full compressed length is less than an 1" between the 2 shocks. So I don't think the bumpstop requirement would be much different for either given the shock body lengths. I think I could set it up to use the entire shock travel though with 6" up travel but under 3.7" droop. Droop stops right before the control arms contact and further away from a 50/50 split.
The jk shocks are a hair shorter than the 4inch Ranchos but more travel so that's a plus.
They also look better with the slimmer tube. It seems the tube used is contributing to higher travel in a tighter package.
Relaying all this info in case someone is looking at black maxx shocks as this is another option. Still need to road test them. Hopefully soon!
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When I first started to look at this post and just started seeing the first pic, I saw a shock shaft and my first thought was 'damn that is some serious damage to the shock shaft, I hope he's sanded down the edges...'
Reflections and not enough on the screen for context... Didn't realized the shock was inverted...
Looking good! Love the amount of pics you post to share your build. Getting closer to a pavement ride!