I was actually wondering about utilizing that space this week in a way that would work with hard/soft top. Do you have a framed top or frameless?
Project Basketcase!
- Thread starter Rickyd
- Start date
I was actually wondering about utilizing that space this week in a way that would work with hard/soft top. Do you have a framed top or frameless?
OP
I have a bestop with a frame. Anything that clamps to the windshield like factory should have similar clearance
The frameless ones are tight across the roll bars, so if anything went above the top of them at all it'd stab into them. Hard to tell from the perspective if that is the case with your AR.
I'm also not thinking about rifle storage so the exact thing you're using wouldn't work anyways haha.
OP
I definitely wouldn't leave guns there. Or going down the highway. But while out hunting its a nice solution
Forsure. I was thinking for my stuff and the dog stuff - the things I'm tired of all being together in the center console on top of each other basically lol. Need the leash? Well, better start digging
OP
Changed out the rear output seal on my ax15 recently as well. Heres the napa part #.One less oil leak!
Also put new seals in the fogged up tailights.this brand fit well.
Lenses say 89 yj on them. Hadn't noticed that before
Also put new seals in the fogged up tailights.this brand fit well.
Lenses say 89 yj on them. Hadn't noticed that before
OP
OP
I'll probably regret not starting a file with all the modifications and part numbers. There isn't much left of a 97 tj besides the trans,body and frame.
Shit I completely messed that up. I saw @lBasket and thought that was his post. Sorry Ricky you aren't the branch manager. Basket hits a branch every year at Moab.
Oh yeah I hear the earlier months are more YJ-y. Have you seen the pic of the TJ that got the YJ wipers?
OP
Picked up some 3" currie springs 9133rh today for 80$!
Previous owner went to coilovers and tons after using them for a year. I was only getting an inch of lift with ome 942's in back with tools and a hard top. now i get 1.5".progress!
man this jeep is heavy...
Unfortunately now i don't have the staggered height ome's that compensate for lean. i need to make a spacer for the passenger side to level the back. Thinking of using 1/4" or 3/8" steel as a spacer. 2-5/8" center hole 6-3/4" outside diameter should fit the coil perch
Previous owner went to coilovers and tons after using them for a year. I was only getting an inch of lift with ome 942's in back with tools and a hard top. now i get 1.5".progress!
man this jeep is heavy...Unfortunately now i don't have the staggered height ome's that compensate for lean. i need to make a spacer for the passenger side to level the back. Thinking of using 1/4" or 3/8" steel as a spacer. 2-5/8" center hole 6-3/4" outside diameter should fit the coil perch
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OP
Finished installing jk front turn signals in my grill today.
Had to cut down the bar on the funky front bumper so the tubes didn't block the turn signals first.
I think the bumper looks a little better that way. I don't know what it is but the p.o. cut the ends off it to be a stubby. I'd like to get a warn or smittybilt type and cut it down eventually.
Will probably transfer the hoop over as winch protection when i do so.
I used a 3-1/8" holesaw like jerry recommends and then a dremel to open the hole up slighty and cut slots. I followed his instructions here
Post in thread 'Turn signals in front grill, tube fenders' https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/turn-signals-in-front-grill-tube-fenders.4740/post-64730.
My turn signal pigtails were cut off so i had to run around town getting a couple.extended the wiring from what i had left of the factory harness to reach. They do indeed plug right into the jk housing!
I dig the kinda cj look.i could have wired in the diodes,etc needed to get the tiny led turn signals to also have running lights but this mod appealed to me.
The pigtails are labeled major,minor,ground. Major being the blinker and minor being the running light. My 97s wires were black-ground,striped-running light,solid color-turn.the "stripe" and "solid" wires being different colors on each side but having the same function.There was a 4th solid color blue on both sides that was folded back. Probably for a marker light but i didn't bother to test it.
Had to cut down the bar on the funky front bumper so the tubes didn't block the turn signals first.
I think the bumper looks a little better that way. I don't know what it is but the p.o. cut the ends off it to be a stubby. I'd like to get a warn or smittybilt type and cut it down eventually.
Will probably transfer the hoop over as winch protection when i do so.
I used a 3-1/8" holesaw like jerry recommends and then a dremel to open the hole up slighty and cut slots. I followed his instructions here
Post in thread 'Turn signals in front grill, tube fenders' https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/turn-signals-in-front-grill-tube-fenders.4740/post-64730.
My turn signal pigtails were cut off so i had to run around town getting a couple.extended the wiring from what i had left of the factory harness to reach. They do indeed plug right into the jk housing!
I dig the kinda cj look.i could have wired in the diodes,etc needed to get the tiny led turn signals to also have running lights but this mod appealed to me.
The pigtails are labeled major,minor,ground. Major being the blinker and minor being the running light. My 97s wires were black-ground,striped-running light,solid color-turn.the "stripe" and "solid" wires being different colors on each side but having the same function.There was a 4th solid color blue on both sides that was folded back. Probably for a marker light but i didn't bother to test it.
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OP
Something I've noticed swapping springs is just how bound up the suspension is with a bushing on one end of the arms. I've had to stand on the axle to be able to pull out the coils in the back.
I need to cut off the bushing side of my rough country arms and weld some inserts in so its double adjustable.i already have jj's on the other end. These kits are a great deal
https://www.polyperformance.com/poly-performance-forged-johnny-joint-kit-package.
That and a currie rear track bar should help a lot in the droop dept!
A three link front like @starkey480 built would be a great way to limber up the front. It starts here- Post in thread 'Arizona Rock Crawling Daily Driver' https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/arizona-rock-crawling-daily-driver.26000/post-1065359
Basically widens stock stock upper mount and does a savvy style mount on the axle with 2-1/2" x1" jj's.ce-9113 and ce-9113L. Less bind on the suspension.
At my lift level mid arms doesn't make sense to me. But allowing for more droop to balance the travel and longer shocks through a bit of welding does
I need to cut off the bushing side of my rough country arms and weld some inserts in so its double adjustable.i already have jj's on the other end. These kits are a great deal
https://www.polyperformance.com/poly-performance-forged-johnny-joint-kit-package.
That and a currie rear track bar should help a lot in the droop dept!
A three link front like @starkey480 built would be a great way to limber up the front. It starts here- Post in thread 'Arizona Rock Crawling Daily Driver' https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/arizona-rock-crawling-daily-driver.26000/post-1065359
Basically widens stock stock upper mount and does a savvy style mount on the axle with 2-1/2" x1" jj's.ce-9113 and ce-9113L. Less bind on the suspension.
At my lift level mid arms doesn't make sense to me. But allowing for more droop to balance the travel and longer shocks through a bit of welding does
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OP
Made a nice craigslist score for 140$
Good tailgate,steering shafts,oem starter,and wiper assembly off a 34,000 mile 01 !
Gonna grease and use the steering shafts right away. The starter too,my high compression stroker doesn't play well with the o'reillys starter.
Good tailgate,steering shafts,oem starter,and wiper assembly off a 34,000 mile 01 !
Gonna grease and use the steering shafts right away. The starter too,my high compression stroker doesn't play well with the o'reillys starter.
OP
Spent some time today modifying my new to me pillow block for a grease zerk and getting the lower shaft/pillow block installed.
After taking it apart i noticed the race and bearing cage are both split. For you guys with less than ideal clearance that is a good thing. You can sand/grind the gap larger so the bearing can become smaller and take up the slop on the shaft.i did a little but mine was in great shape to begin with.
I noticed the rubber bushing had slop in the clamshell holders.
So i tightened them up too by using a chainsaw file to oval the top bolt hole and bent them closer together
That took care of the shaft wobble there.
Then i moved on to making the assembly greasable!
Drilled a hole in the front clamshell through the bushing to where the bearing race sits. Further out might not give the bearing as much grease and just send it around the plastic seal housing.had to bend the lip flat next to the hole to make room for the fitting
Found a 45* grease fitting to get the zerk out and away enough for the grease gun
Works great! Stop putting in grease when the seal housings on the end bulge slightly from pressure so they don't pop out
Its rock solid now. There's as much deflection in the steel mount to the frame as in the pillow block now
I decided to clock it down so water wouldn't run into the rubber pillow block hole
After taking it apart i noticed the race and bearing cage are both split. For you guys with less than ideal clearance that is a good thing. You can sand/grind the gap larger so the bearing can become smaller and take up the slop on the shaft.i did a little but mine was in great shape to begin with.
I noticed the rubber bushing had slop in the clamshell holders.
So i tightened them up too by using a chainsaw file to oval the top bolt hole and bent them closer together
That took care of the shaft wobble there.
Then i moved on to making the assembly greasable!
Drilled a hole in the front clamshell through the bushing to where the bearing race sits. Further out might not give the bearing as much grease and just send it around the plastic seal housing.had to bend the lip flat next to the hole to make room for the fitting
Found a 45* grease fitting to get the zerk out and away enough for the grease gun
Works great! Stop putting in grease when the seal housings on the end bulge slightly from pressure so they don't pop out
Its rock solid now. There's as much deflection in the steel mount to the frame as in the pillow block now
I decided to clock it down so water wouldn't run into the rubber pillow block hole
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OP
So like an idiot,over the winter i misplaced the tub brackets and screws for my soft top rear window bar. I ordered these and they are the wrong size for my bestop supertop slots are 3/4" instead of the bestop 1/2" thickness
Dangit!
Dangit!
OP
Haven't been doing much to the jeep other than driving it with the top and doors off. I did put a new (25$) dorman thermostat housing on to hopefully fix a pesky leak the old warped housing kept creating.and drilled an air hole in the thermostat.
OP
Some glitter in the coolant and a wobbly fan prompted me to change my water pump today. I used an ac delco that will hopefully last a little while. Changed my intake/exhaust gasket too as it had a tiny bit of exhaust staining from leaks.
The banks revolver header still going strong with no leaks at 25k miles
#2 injector wires at the injector are shot.had a miss once it was back together until i bent the wires around til they contacted again,lol. I need to come up with a pigtail for that injector before it quits entirely
The banks revolver header still going strong with no leaks at 25k miles
#2 injector wires at the injector are shot.had a miss once it was back together until i bent the wires around til they contacted again,lol. I need to come up with a pigtail for that injector before it quits entirely
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