Tomb Raider Rubicon RetroMod

[josephbelttj]

Hello friends,

I plan to use this thread to document my 2003 Tomb Raider Rubicon build. It’s authentic (No. 627), and while the original plan was to restore it, I’ve since discovered Jeep provides little to no parts support for their legacy products. With no manufacturer support, the “restomod” plan seems like the most viable approach.

Gripe: Jeep is apparently a far cry from a company like Porsche, where you can routinely purchase interior trim and other parts directly from the local dealer for a 1990s 911. It may take 3 weeks and shipping from Germany, but they’ll get what you need and it’s genuine Porsche. Having owned a 100 series Landcruiser, even Toyota continues to support that 20 year old vehicle with genuine parts readily available from the dealer. I’m honestly surprised that the Wrangler, with such a huge and loyal customer base, is essentially abandoned by the manufacturer. Moving on…

I’m beginning with a cleanup and creating a general baseline so I can prioritize what needs to be addressed. Removing old carpets, cleaning everything top to bottom, removing any cheesy aftermarket mods, and replacing all the fluids. I’ve already run into my first problem, which is Jeep didn’t want anyone to service their transfer case, which is clear because they installed the diff lock pumps directly in front of the drain. What I thought would be low hanging fruit is now a research project.

Finding these pumps was a surprise. I had already succumbed to the fact it’s designed so the fluid drains into the underbelly skid plate, creating a huge mess as if the Exxon Valdez capsized in my garage. One thing is clear trying to work on this Jeep and assessing the general build quality - it isn’t a Toyota.

 

[josephbelttj]

I finally managed to tackle the front/rear differential fluid, manual transmission fluid, and the transfer case. The transfer case held me up last night because on the Rubicon, the air pumps and birds nest of wires and hoses are lumped together in front of the drain.

I had no interest in removing the skid plate, (which apparently also holds up the transmission) to change some fluids. I decided to attack the problem using only the accessible fill hole and a $10 transfer pump from Autozone. I’m sure they’re available everywhere. I pumped the old fluid out through the fill hole and once it was empty, reversed the process until it was full. Something to think about before putting in the time to drop the skid plate.

Note: The old fluid was still cherry red, so I don’t see any harm with this 90% solution.

 

[josephbelttj]

I managed to clean up some surface rust under the original hinge using rust dissolver and added a coat of primer. New stainless hinge installed. Should finish the drivers side tomorrow.

 

[josephbelttj]

While the windshield hinges were very easy, the tailgate hinges required substantially more work to remove. Even using a torch to heat the bolt head and an impact gun, the bolts did not want to budge, and I broke a torx bit. I eventually found a method of using a stepped bit to drill through the bolt head until the hinge was free, and the remaining bolt shank was easily removed with some vise grips.

The MORryde hinges were a disappointment. The bolt holding the hinge together is nothing more than a standard 3.5” stainless bolt you can pick up at Lowes or Home Depot. Not only does it look cheap (because it’s $0.60), it’s so long the hinge doesn’t fit because it hits the tail light. My hack solution was to remove the bolt and insert it backwards so the length of it would face up vs down. That was a nightmare. A torch and impact gun wasn’t enough to remove the nut (red threadlocker?) from the bolt without completely butchering it. Off to Lowes to pick up more hardware, but ultimately the solution worked and they’re now mounted. The powder coat was damaged from having to manhandle them…but they’re functional. At $162, shame on MORryde for using standard hardware store bolts that prevent installation, and look like a quick fix for something that wore out. Unacceptable at this price point.

 

[josephbelttj]

Repainting the interior metal body complete. Interior plastics looking great with a fresh coat of SEM classic coat slate grey and satin clear.

 

[josephbelttj]

I’m very impressed with the outcome of refreshing the dash trim with SEM Color Coat. Slate Grey and Satin Clear. Roll bar speaker pods turned out equally well, so I’m moving on to the door panels. Replaced the dash bulbs with white LEDs since the dash was already apart. I also managed to find some very good condition half doors.

 

[josephbelttj]

I thought this would be a useful post for anyone considering new carpet or another floor solution. I decided to go with Bedrug. This is my first experience with Bedrug and the fit and finish is absolutely perfect. The material is stamped on the back where it should be cut with a razor knife for seat brackets and other similar areas. Very easy. Outstanding product. 10/10

 

[josephbelttj]

The Bestop sport bar covers were an excellent replacement for the tired and dry rotted original fabric.

 

[josephbelttj]

PRP seats in ostrich and red suede using the original seat risers to retain the flip-forward capability.

 

[josephbelttj]

I was able to remove the Tomb Raider decals without damage using a heat gun and a plastic spackle knife. They’re made of a metal foil and are relatively solid. I plan on using 3M emblem adhesive to replace them after the fresh paint next week. Not bad for 21 years old.

 

[josephbelttj]

JKS 2” springs and Fox 2.0 shocks.

 

[josephbelttj]

It’s been a few weeks and we’re finally back from the paint booth. Primer + Silver metallic base coat + clear coat. Nobody wants to paint a full car, and those who will want huge money (over $10K), so it’s the best finish Maaco can do. I disassembled everything prior to paint to avoid any major disappointments. Considering the $2,500 price point I’m happy, and although there are a few spots I’ll have to have addressed later, the overall paint condition is good.

New LED tail lights from Mr Blaine over at Black Magic Brakes. Wow. These are machined from aluminum billet and exceptional quality. Even better is the customer service. Please go check out his stuff.

I thought the clear turn signal lenses with amber LEDs would be a nice touch and the new Mickey Thompson Baja Boss AT tires arrived. Lots to do!

 

[josephbelttj]

Mickey Thompson Baja Boss AT 285/70R17 on ProComp wheels. I’d prefer Mickey Thompson wheels in the same style, but they don’t offer them in 17” using the TJ 5x4.5 bolt pattern.

 

[josephbelttj]

Attended Jeep Poosa in Montgomery AL and received my first duck! I also took the Defender 130 out on the obstacle course and spanked a few Gladiators that couldn’t make it through the course. I unhitched the Defender from our 23 foot Airstream, it walked through the course without any drama, the computer doing all the work controlling lockers and air suspension, and returned to camp for a beer. Completely uneventful - almost boring. The new defender is definitely capable.

 

[Danarch]

I finally managed to tackle the front/rear differential fluid, manual transmission fluid, and the transfer case. The transfer case held me up last night because on the Rubicon, the air pumps and birds nest of wires and hoses are lumped together in front of the drain.

I had no interest in removing the skid plate, (which apparently also holds up the transmission) to change some fluids. I decided to attack the problem using only the accessible fill hole and a $10 transfer pump from Autozone. I’m sure they’re available everywhere. I pumped the old fluid out through the fill hole and once it was empty, reversed the process until it was full. Something to think about before putting in the time to drop the skid plate.


View attachment 516596


Note: The old fluid was still cherry red, so I don’t see any harm with this 90% solution.

Since so many post not sure if you’ve done this yet or not. But on my Ruby I unbolted the pump assembly from the skid plate and moved out of the way. Clean up wasn’t too bad as the skid plate (at least mine did) has a little dropped area under the drain port, it only required cleaning the little area up with shop towels. Great looking build.

 

[josephbelttj]

Ugh. After removing the 3” body lift I had to relocate the radiator and fan shroud to their original locations. Since the radiator had to come out anyway, I decided this would be a good time to replace all the hoses and coolant.

Within 24 hours I now have a massive heater core leak after completely replacing the interior - of course. A constant stream of orange fluid is coming through the passenger side of the firewall. A black bung I’m guessing is the condensate drip pan. So much blood. The horror…the horror.

I don’t need heat in Alabama during summer, and I know this repair will be long and painful, so I have to figure out how to plug the heater hose so I can enjoy the new Jeep this summer.

 

[josephbelttj]

 

[josephbelttj]

I was able to bypass the heater core with a 3/4 to 5/8 adapter to create a loop, so it’s back on the road for the summer. Gathering feedback now on the best heater core and AC evaporator to fix it correctly this winter.

The new Bestop half-doors with glass window sliders took the edge off the coolant fiasco.

 

[josephbelttj]

…and now I need a radiator. WTF.

 

[josephbelttj]

I received my new Mopar radiator. It has the ports at the bottom for the automatic transmission, but it works fine for a manual as well. I was surprised it was Made in USA. I took the opportunity to install a new FlowKooler thermostat (very robust and looks quality), Mopar thermostat housing, Mopar temperature sensor, and ACDelco Professional water pump. I also replaced the idle pulley with a new Mopar. All went together with Felpro gaskets and so far no leaks.