Doing It The Hard Way - JL Steering Box and a Front Stretch

[carrotman]

I was a little nervous about the sway bar link bracket hitting the track bar bracket at full articulation, so I checked it. No problem.

Checking clearance with the tire, it does actually interfere with the bolt for the upper link heim. Only a problem at full articulation, full steering, and AR position 2. The tire just barely grabs the bolt but I think I can do better. This is with 1/2" of extra spacing behind the wheel.

I removed the 3/8" spacer and replaced it with one I machined down to about 1/8". Enough clearance that nothing touches now.

So I removed the 1/2" wheel spacer and put in a 1/4" one, back to where I started, as expected. I'm thinking I can put a button head screw here and have it clear just fine, or if not, it will at least have a rounded head to not catch on the tire lugs. It might limit the heim's misalignment ability, but I don't think I'll need it, everything stays pretty straight throughout travel.

I'd like to stick with the 1/4" wheel spacer because it makes it a lot easier to mount the wheel. With a 1/2" spacer, it covers up the center hub on the unit bearing, plus I am having a hard time finding wheel studs that are the right size. One other issue with the 1/4" spacer though is the tire hits the shock a little, but only at full lock steering and full articulation. I don't think it would be enough force to cause any damage to the shock other than maybe scuffing it. The tire would just deflect.

Started tackling one job that I was dreading, got the cutout in the frame plated. I knew this was going to be tedious, and it was. Just made it out of separate pieces instead of trying to bend one piece. Probably should have built in a bit more clearance than I did, but it'll work.

Just gotta fully weld this up and hope it doesn't warp, then I'll weld it onto the frame for good.

 

[carrotman]

Got this thing fully welded on both sides and ground smooth where it is visible.

Tacked it into position

Here is the clearance I ended up with at the extremes based on where the wheel is turned.

Turned out pretty good! I'll finish weld with the axle out.

Next, I figured out the position needed for the brake hose clip going to the caliper. I don't think I mentioned it yet, but I went with straight banjo fittings and 15" -3AN hoses with a right angle on one end. Then it goes to an inverted flare adapter for the hard line. I would have preferred a 90° side bend banjo rather than the 90° hose end, but that seems to be an incredibly uncommon part. Goodridge makes one and there is an ebay listing from the UK for it, but I don't want to rely on unobtainium parts.

No interference with the tire or anything that moves:

I have it pointed inwards instead of outwards to keep everything tucked up tight and out of harm's way. No interference.

And fully turned the other way. The bend is nice and modest so there isn't much strain on the hose throughout it's movement range. The only thing that causes concern is if I explode a u-joint it might take out a brake line. I'll try to not explode any u-joints.

The Russell hoses are nice and I'm fine with using them, but in hindsight I wish I had gotten hoses with a lower profile 90° end. The little section of tube just seems a bit vulnerable.

 

[carrotman]

Okay, bump stops. I think this is the last thing I need to figure out before I take the axle out for the last time.

This is the axle jacked up against the bump stop with enough force to barely lift the frame. There is 1.25" of shock shaft showing. I'm not really sure how much I should take off of the puck though, maybe about 1" to keep the shock 1/4" from bottoming out? The issue with these Metalcloak bumper things is there isn't really a clear limit to how much they will compress. I think at least with the stock ones you can count on them completely bottoming out and use the steel cup itself as your limit, but I don't think these would even get close. Gently lifting the axle up with a jack is a lot different than hitting a jump at 70mph, for example. I'm not saying that's how I drive or anything...

I'll weld a nut to the spring seat and run a bolt through the middle to secure these. It is nice and slippery UHMW and the diameter is a snug sliding fit inside the spring. I'm hoping it will keep the spring aligned with the seat without needing anything else.

I'm also wondering if I should mill off the top at an angle to better match the bump stop, but I'd need to also figure out a way to keep the puck clocked the right way if I do that. The angle changes anyways based on the axle's articulation, so maybe not.

 

[FarFire70]

Always enjoy seeing your updates. I don't know that I see the entire system in my head because of all you have going on, but I really enjoy your post details (and pics!) and commend your fabrications skills!

You looking to be getting close to a test drive. Hoping that's this spring/summer for you!

 

[carrotman]

Always enjoy seeing your updates. I don't know that I see the entire system in my head because of all you have going on, but I really enjoy your post details (and pics!) and commend your fabrications skills!

You looking to be getting close to a test drive. Hoping that's this spring/summer for you!

I appreciate your compliment! It is definitely a lot, the project has snowballed quite a bit. Changing a few things affected other things and all of a sudden I'm reinventing everything attached to the front axle... I hope that test drive happens soon!

 

[Wildman]

I appreciate your compliment! It is definitely a lot, the project has snowballed quite a bit. Changing a few things affected other things and all of a sudden I'm reinventing everything attached to the front axle... I hope that test drive happens soon!

God I feel this statement a LOT... It's been interesting watching you progress on this.

 

[carrotman]

Finished up my bump stop spacer puck things. 3D printed a little mandrel that has 1/2"-20 threads on the inside and has an OD of 3/4" which lets it fit in a collet for the mill. Used the mill like a lathe again with the tool mounted in the vice. This allowed me to turn down the OD of the puck so it fits a bit looser in the spring and get nice clean chamfers and faces. Awkward to use and not the most precise but it worked fine.

I stuck a sharpie down the bolt hole with the springs installed to get the center point, just need to weld a nut on at that spot and they should be good to go.

I'm running out of excuses to keep the axle in, just need to wrap up one or two more things and it can come out for finish welds, paint, and final install.

 

[carrotman]

Here we go again. I'm getting pretty quick at getting the axle out.

Got nuts located and welded onto the spring seats. I drilled a hole through too so I don't have to be too precise with the bolt length.

Holds the spring in place as intended, nice.

Fully welded the main sway bar link bracket piece. Got a pretty decent looking weld!

Then fully welded on the extra stiffener piece I made, ground the corners flat.

Fully welded the dampener mount.

Fully welded the inside seams of the track bar bracket piece I replaced. Ground the outside corners flat. Did a once over with the finger sander to remove any stray weld BBs sticking to the axle.

Fully welded the frame cutout plate all the way around. I was thinking about adding a fish plate too, but I don't think it will be necessary. Remember, the inside of the frame is fish plated already. I kinda want to keep the welded seams I ground flat uncovered so in case they crack or anything I'll be able to see it.

Hoping I can finish up the brake lines tomorrow and maybe get the internal frame coating sprayed in.

My back is telling me I made a lot of progress today.

 

[FarFire70]

Are you using the blue tape to keep un-painted parts from rusting or is that scratch protection?

 

[carrotman]

Are you using the blue tape to keep un-painted parts from rusting or is that scratch protection?

Scratch protection, and in the case of the shock shafts, weld splatter protection

 

[carrotman]

Took a crack at the hard lines today.

My solution to securing the line across the axle tube was to weld on a 3/8" rod with some space between and just use zip ties. I think the more common way I've seen on here is to use 1/2" bar and drill and tap for fasteners to use with line clamps. I didn't have any 1/2" round bar and drilling and tapping a round surface seemed more fiddly than I was willing to deal with. I think the zip tie method will work fine.

To mount the tee, I drilled a 5/8" hole and hammered in a 7/16 flange nut upside down into the hole, then tacked the sides.

The flange allows the block to sit off the surface a bit so you can get a flare nut wrench on the line hardware.

This took way longer than I thought it would. Super fiddly to work with, and I've got the easy nicopp stuff too. Managed to get two decent inverted flares using my crappy parts store flaring tool, and made all the bends with my thumbs and a socket. Needs some fine tuning still. I've got some adel clamps on the way to support the line off the truss and shock mount.

Hopefully the learning curve is over and the driver side goes quick! I'd like to get this thing painted before it gets super humid again.

 

[carrotman]

Got the brake lines finished up today. Man, I am glad to have that over with.

The P-clips came in this morning. To mount them, I decided to weld in upside down 1/4"-20 flange nuts in partially drilled holes since it worked pretty well for the T block. Rivnuts weren't an option because the underside of the truss isn't flat at the edges.

It is against the law to make brake lines without forgetting to put the fitting on the line before the very last flare.

I think I figured out why the tubing cutter has a notch in the rollers though.

Everything finished up. Turned out good! Hopefully no surprises on final assembly though.

 

[Fluxor]

I have forgot the fitting more then once. I feel your pain.

 

[carrotman]

Thought I'd share my fabrication setup. It ain't much! I got a portable band saw from Harbor Freight in December. I just have a long bolt through the handle and mounted in the vice. A larger table would be nicer and probably safer, as would a foot activated power switch, but it has worked well like this so far. I don't know why I resisted getting a band saw for so long, I never want to cut out brackets from steel plate with an angle grinder again.

And here is my benchtop belt sander, a Harbor Freight bandfile I got on sale for $25 clamped to the table top. This thing has earned its keep! There isn't much I've done on the Jeep that didn't involve these two tools, my welder, and my angle grinder.

I've been trying to figure out what to do about my shock reservoirs. I welded on a little block with a gap for a hose clamp to slip through. It works, it holds the res, but I'm not sure I like the round reservoir only contacting at one point on a flat piece of steel. Seems like it may cause damage or be less secure over time. I'm probably over thinking it.

Got the inside of the frame coated with Eastwood internal coating today. I also got the axle mostly painted along with a fresh coat on some brackets I dinged up. I do need to flip the axle over for the rest. Used a foam roller for most of it and a little bit of aerosol can for where it was hard to reach.

Just gotta clean up the frame in a few areas and finish up the shock res mount and it'll be ready for paint too. Looking more finished every day!

 

[carrotman]

I bet something like this would work.

 

[Mike_H]

I've been trying to figure out what to do about my shock reservoirs. I welded on a little block with a gap for a hose clamp to slip through. It works, it holds the res, but I'm not sure I like the round reservoir only contacting at one point on a flat piece of steel. Seems like it may cause damage or be less secure over time. I'm probably over thinking it.
View attachment 516178

Most of what I see is just a small (maybe 3/4" wide 16 ga or so) bracket that is 6-8" long and its "U" shaped. The legs of the u are probably 1/8" to 1/4." That lets you get two hose clamps around the reservoir and you pinch it up against a flat bar.

 

[Superjay5]

How I recently did my front shock reservoir mount. Kept it simple and out of the way. Just a piece of flat stock from tower bent back to the coil bucket. Added a hard piece of rubber in between the mount and res for funsies

 

[Gunnersmate]

Looks really good, taking your time and thinking things out nicely done

 

[carrotman]

Most of what I see is just a small (maybe 3/4" wide 16 ga or so) bracket that is 6-8" long and its "U" shaped. The legs of the u are probably 1/8" to 1/4." That lets you get two hose clamps around the reservoir and you pinch it up against a flat bar.

I saw @jjvw post this recently, is this what you mean? That could work.

How I recently did my front shock reservoir mount. Kept it simple and out of the way. Just a piece of flat stock from tower bent back to the coil bucket. Added a hard piece of rubber in between the mount and res for funsies

I think the rubber is a good idea. I'll see if I have anything that would work.

 

[Mike_H]

I saw @jjvw post this recently, is this what you mean? That could work.
View attachment 516539



I think the rubber is a good idea. I'll see if I have anything that would work.

Similar. I was thinking more u-shaped where you would weld the legs to where ever you might want to mount the res. JJVW's solution would be good if you wanted to bolt the thing in.