Doing It The Hard Way - JL Steering Box and a Front Stretch

Got the front face sprayed today.
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Already had a bit of a malfunction with the cheap spray gun. The trigger plunger is digging a hole into the trigger metal and is getting bound up on it, even caused it to bend. I think I can get it to work better, just need to mess around with it.

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I'd probably recommend greasing that spot if anyone buys this gun.
 
Got the front face sprayed today.
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Already had a bit of a malfunction with the cheap spray gun. The trigger plunger is digging a hole into the trigger metal and is getting bound up on it, even caused it to bend. I think I can get it to work better, just need to mess around with it.

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I'd probably recommend greasing that spot if anyone buys this gun.

Weird…I’d return it. I have one of those guns and been using it for years without issue.
 
Weird…I’d return it. I have one of those guns and been using it for years without issue.

You're probably right, but I already threw away the packaging and know I bought the last one they had, so it would probably end up being a hassle.

I do actually have an old version of this gun, maybe like 13 years old. It's pretty crusted up with paint, but I did pull the trigger off of it to compare.
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They are both pretty similar, but the sheet metal at the contact point is bent in less on old version to the left. Makes it easier for the plunger to slide across the surface rather than catch on the textured surface and dig in.

I went ahead and threw the old trigger on the new gun, rounded and polished the tip of the plunger as well. Seems to be running pretty smooth now.

Kind of interesting to see all the tiny optimizations they made to each component of the spray gun over the years though. The new one overall is definitely better than the old one, aside from my trigger issue of course. Better tip, better seals, lower part count etc.
 
Got my radiator mounts finished up
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It definitely warped a bit when I welded it, but it still fits fine.

Got the fan shroud made as well. Just need to get some more rivnuts to finish it up.
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I may end up welding some box section to the underside of the shroud to space it out a bit, but need to get it installed first to see if I have the space.

Grille back installed on the car, hopefully for good. Painted the radiator brackets with Steel-it.
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The stock TJ power steering lines seem to fit the JL steering box. Wasn't expecting that, and hopefully they seal correctly, but I'll take that as a win.
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Lastly, I got the driver side fender installed. Feels like a bit of a milestone. I wasn't very careful with how I cut the fender to clear the new stuff because I'm probably going to end up getting a new fender anyways. This one isn't in great shape. I'll try to fine tune my cutouts for the passenger side though.
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Got the passenger side fender cut out and installed, this time I was able to be much more precise by referencing the other side.
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The air filter box didn't quite fit right with the shock tower in the way, but I was able to get the front two bolts in. It'll work for now, I do plan on doing an intake through the cowl in the future.

Installed the tire and stuffed it, it's actually pretty close to clearing. I'll have to trim about 1/2" of the sheet metal off where it is contacting the tire here.
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Tire rubs the shock but can still be easily turned by hand, so not worried about it.
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Barely clears the inner fender support, will have to double check this once I trim the outside lip.
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Happy to be putting things together, I'm ready to drive this thing!
 
Got the radiator fan put together and installed.
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Connected the fan to the battery. No problem with airflow!
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Trimmed the radiator drain to clear the drag link. Hopefully at least, I didn't check it. Can still use a thin pair of pliers to get it off.
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Found a spot for the coolant bottle, at least for now. It's just zip tied to the evap bracket but it is secure.
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Decided to bend the fender lip rather than cut it. I think it was a better idea in my head though.
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It'll work for now.

Tire does hit the support now but barely. I'm not going to worry about it right now.
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Had a mad rush getting all the fluids drained and filled. Jumped my dead battery and started it up! Nice and loud without the exhaust on.
I think I either have bad gas or it's just empty. Need to get a fresh couple gallons in there and see how it runs. Probably need a new battery too.

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Well it ran for about 2 minutes yesterday, but it sputtered and died and I haven't been able to get it to start since. The tank has hardly any gas in it, but it is definitely old. I live in a hot and humid environment and the evap lines were all open too.

I tried adding about a gallon and a half of premium gas, and a little bit of fuel system cleaner, but it still isn't starting. Spraying some carb cleaner into the intake gets it to fire briefly, but no more than a few seconds.

Ran out and got a loaner fuel pressure test kit from O'Reilly, and I've got absolutely zero fuel pressure. Disconnected the fuel line from the rail and from the tank by the spring, and blew the line out with some compressed air. Didn't feel clogged or anything.

Ran the fuel pump by jumping the relay with the fuel line still disconnected, and it's barely dripping out. I'm guessing the fuel in the tank has gummed up and is blocking something in the fuel sending assembly, which means I'll have to drop the tank. Bummer, but I've dropped it a few times before.
 
Well that wasn't bad. Took about 10 minutes to drop it. Putting it back in will be the hard part though.

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Whether it needs a fuel pump or not, it might be a good idea to get a new one anyways. As far as I know, its original and almost at 150k miles
 
I couldn't leave it alone, so I opened it up. I think I found my problem...
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The particulate coating the bottom of the pump is extremely fine, feels like clay. Hopefully it is foreign matter and not the brushes from the pump worn away. There are also some granules of something about an inch up the outside of the aluminum tube, almost looks like sugar, though I don't suspect it actually is.

Where is the fuel pickup screen? Everywhere.
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I'm glad I dropped the tank.

Unfortunately the Bosch pumps on Amazon are like 3-4 weeks out, so I might just try my best to clean what I have and order one for the next time I drop the tank, which will need to happen for the rear shock outboarding anyways. I'm going to have to figure out a new pickup screen at least though.
 
I went ahead and bought a Delphi FG1353 off Amazon, it should be here tomorrow. Starting to think trying to reuse my factory module might not go well. I'd imagine the second screen by the pump also won't look good, and the filter in the regulator is probably also clogged or compromised. I also tore the rubber seal at the top of the pump that attaches to the upper plastic piece, and all of the electrical connections are corroded. I wonder what caused all this sediment and the total breakdown of the filter screens.
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Got my fuel tank all cleaned out and dried. There was a lot of crap in there, and I think most of it was disintegrating fuel pickup screen. I have no idea what caused that, you'd think it is fuel safe.
Noticed a couple of rub marks on the tank:
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The first one is from my parking brake cables, I'll need to secure those somehow so they don't rub. The second mark is from my rear bumper to frame stiffener brackets, there's a bolt that goes through the frame. I just took it out, but I might need to just get a shorter bolt in there or something.
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Went ahead and installed my Currie springs in the rear to level things out. I really need to throw some paint on the frame...
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Compared to OME 2.5"
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What's up with these factory bump stops disintegrating too?
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Couldn't help myself, did a quick polish on the Savvy skid
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Gas tank all ready to go
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Amazon finally arrived, this unit is looking much better!
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Got excited and got some more gas, primed the pump, and confirmed pressure!
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Still need to get a battery, I'm trying to warranty my Northstar (Same as Odyssey, EnerSys) battery which is 2 years 1 month into the 4 year warranty, but the distributor I got it from is claiming they only do 2 year warranties... I have a feeling this is going to turn into a whole thing. That thing was expensive!
 
You should move those coil buckets before it goes back on its wheels😉

x2 Was thinking the same thing and you beat me to the comment.

@carrotman I get wanting to get it on the road. You may be able to save your spring perches when you got to move them but, if that rust is any indication, be ready for replacement. I recommend Ballistic Fab.

Link

My experience with rusted rear spring perches that I tried to reuse but were un-savable...

Rusted Spring Perches
 
x2 Was thinking the same thing and you beat me to the comment.

@carrotman I get wanting to get it on the road. You may be able to save your spring perches when you got to move them but, if that rust is any indication, be ready for replacement. I recommend Ballistic Fab.

Link

My experience with rusted rear spring perches that I tried to reuse but were un-savable...

Rusted Spring Perches

I've already got a set waiting for me, I think I went with either Ruffstuff or Barnes, don't remember. My factory ones are likely not salvageable, some of the worst rust on the Jeep is up on top of the spring perch for some reason.
 
Well I've been running the Jeep today, got maybe 5 heat cycles on it so far. Started right up this morning with that new fuel pump which was a good feeling. Seems to be having some trouble cooling though. After about maybe 7 minutes of idling the engine temp starts getting pretty high. Couple times it jumped up to the red then went all the way down to like 120. I suspect there are some air bubbles in the system still. Doesn't seem to be bleeding off on its own, but actually driving it will probably help move things around. I have the JK electric fan wired to the battery and running full blast. It does move a lot of air, so I don't think it is a cooling capacity issue, more of a temperature reading or coolant flow issue.
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Got power steering bled, feels nice and smooth, at least so far with the front wheels still off the ground. Did discover an interference issue with the pitman arm though. I don't exactly know how that happened, I checked clearance here before finishing up the bracket, but I think the whole grille ended up getting mounted shifted over a little from how I checked it. I loosened the body mount and moved the grille over a little using a ratchet strap, but it might still need some help. May just shim out the steering stop for the time being.

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Got the A/C charged up and blowing ice cold too. I don't seem to have caused any catastrophic leaks or anything by opening the system up, though time will tell if the charge lasts.

Really a drag not having that battery now, that's the only reason I can't take it for a spin this weekend!
 
Try driving the passenger tire (I think) up onto a curb or ramp to get the front of the Jeep higher and this sometimes helps with bleeding all the air out.

Thanks for the tip. Seems like I've got it solved now though, I let it cool off for a good 3 hours this time and it seems to have sucked some coolant in from the overflow bottle this time. After letting it idle for 15 minutes, this is as hot as it got. That's in my 95° garage with not much airflow, A/C on full blast, cooling fan on full blast.
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While I was waiting on it to cool off, I tackled a few little tasks. Got all the body mounts back on and tightened, tires filled with air, got the front axle down on the ground, and cleared out all the stuff I was storing inside the Jeep.

I tried to torque the pinion nut too, but the torque wrench is just a little too long and hits the control arm. I'm having a hard time getting enough swing out of it with that in the way, might just need someone to stomp on the brakes so I don't have to turn it as far.
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Turned the wheels back and forth while it was idling and on the ground, and man, the steering is a lot easier than it was on the old box. The bigger JL box is definitely putting out more force, and so far, the TJ pump seems to work fine with it.
 
I think my cooling system is fully burped now. When I checked it this morning, it had sucked in more from the overflow bottle and I was able to add about a quart to the radiator.

Had my wife stomp on the brakes which did the trick for torquing the pinion nut down. Got it to 200ft-lb with my crush sleeve eliminator in there and double checked that the preload didn't change. I was only able to torque it to half that on the bench when I set up the gears so wanted to make sure. When just spinning the pinion with the beam torque wrench, it takes like 80 in-lb to spin it, but I think that's just the stiction (is that a word?) in the differential and inertia needed to start moving the wheels. If I spin a wheel with one hand and then get a reading on the pinion, its around 15-20 then, right where it needs to be. Hopefully I'm going about that the right way.

Next, I took the tape off the upper control arm and installed my ARB air line and axle breather. Just coiled up the extra air line in the engine bay, I don't have a locker pump yet. Zip ties for now, but I'd like to make some fancy clamps at some point.
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After that, I made sure all of the control arm and steering linkage jam nuts were tightened down and stole the battery out of my wife's car. Rolled it out of the garage for the first time in.. a year and a half? Man, I was wondering if I'd ever drive this thing again.

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I took it for a slow lap around the block just to see how things were feeling. Some observations:
  • Something is making a scraping sound, pretty sure its the rusty rear brakes. I'll swap my new ones in soon to match the front.
  • My neighbors want me to put my muffler back on
  • It's really easy to make the tires squeak on the black top. Maybe just from how long they've been sitting, releasing oils or something? Might be my toe or something too
  • Holy crap it's moving
  • Holy crap it's dirty
Spent the day pressure washing and scrubbing the whole thing down. Undercarriage, engine bay, interior, exterior. Way cleaner now.

I think I'll try to get the exhaust done next so I don't annoy my neighbors too much.

Wooo!!