Jack of All Trades, Master of None: LJ Build

[PNW_LJ]

Cool shots. Your jeep looks capable and sleeper ish with the stock fenders on again.

Thank you! I prefer this look as well.

Your photos remind me of when I went to fordyce in the rain, the moisture adds a whole other element to think about. You pnw folks gotta have skills to play in the wet all the time.

You're right, I think every type of terrain has its highlights, and the moisture sure does change things up. But these STT Pros have been amazing, almost like they're doing all the work for me.



I really should get better pics while wheeling, what I posted doesn't depict the trail very well. In that last 50-yard stretch, I think I bellied out 3-4 times and winched twice.

 

[PNW_LJ]

Man I really suck at updating this. There’s been many noteworthy items that’ve occurred, I will attempt to cover at least a couple.

On a sunny day in early March I received a call from one of my buddies that he’d went out into the mountains with some friends, all in one rig and no winch. As expected they get stuck, with no means to recover. A 2 hour drive later, my cousin and I arrive:

A couple short clips:

The issue was that he’d ventured onto a twisty, narrow mountain road. It’s either back reverse several all the way back, with someone walking along as a spotter, or turn around on the only spot wide enough, near a cliff edge:

Thankfully, we all got off the trail safe and sound. We didn’t get off scot-free, as my soft top windows were damaged by (I assume) the cold and high winds

 

[PNW_LJ]

Next step, obtain soft top replacement. The current OEM-style was an aged Rugged Ridge top that I got when I sold my hardtop. I had always wanted to try the fastback style, so I picked up a Bestop Trektop LJ top (cloth only) from a FB Marketplace ad.

From there, I searched for the hardware, as the Sunrider portion still requires a frame of sorts. I discovered that with a few minor adjustments, Bestop’s TJ and LJ Trektop hardware is identical.

I ended up picking up @PMan’s (no longer a forum member unfortunately) TJ Trektop, and stealing the hardware off that one. That gave me the look I was yearning for:

The often mentioned downside of a Trektop is you can’t easily remove the whole top. You can remove the windows and flip back the Sunrider for a bikini top w/ a sunroof experience, but you’re never truly topless.

I had never liked removing my framed top entirely, so this was never a negative for me.

 

[PNW_LJ]

The next day, Pman reached out again saying he was considering selling his OEM half doors w/ uppers. Ever since driving @kiwi’s rig with half doors, I had them on my “eventually down the road” plan. But it was a solid price for the PNW, and while painted, the panels are straight. So I picked them up:

Even mismatched, I think they look great. Emphasizing the factory body line and all. I plan to paint them… eventually. I am terrified of body work, but @JMT spent some time coaxing me over the phone so I think I’ll give it a shot.

 

[Blake Stamper]

Man I really suck at updating this. There’s been many noteworthy items that’ve occurred, I will attempt to cover at least a couple.

On a sunny day in early March I received a call from one of my buddies that he’d went out into the mountains with some friends, all in one rig and no winch. As expected they get stuck, with no means to recover. A 2 hour drive later, my cousin and I arrive:

View attachment 527817

View attachment 527818


A couple short clips:

The issue was that he’d ventured onto a twisty, narrow mountain road. It’s either back reverse several all the way back, with someone walking along as a spotter, or turn around on the only spot wide enough, near a cliff edge:

Thankfully, we all got off the trail safe and sound. We didn’t get off scot-free, as my soft top windows were damaged by (I assume) the cold and high winds

View attachment 527819

View attachment 527820

I was with a couple buddies last year and got stuck in a very similar situation, glad y’all got out, we were as a group stuck for a little over 26 hours…

 

[PNW_LJ]

I was with a couple buddies last year and got stuck in a very similar situation, glad y’all got out, we were as a group stuck for a little over 26 hours…View attachment 527826View attachment 527827

Dayum! Between shoveling, winching and strapping, it took us ~6 hours to get out. Forgot to mention that this is the trip that my second M8000 motor failed on me! One more failure, and it might be time for an upgrade.

TJs saving 4Runners huh. Coincidence?

 

[Apparition]

Next step, obtain soft top replacement. The current OEM-style was an aged Rugged Ridge top that I got when I sold my hardtop. I had always wanted to try the fastback style, so I picked up a Bestop Trektop LJ top (cloth only) from a FB Marketplace ad.

From there, I searched for the hardware, as the Sunrider portion still requires a frame of sorts. I discovered that with a few minor adjustments, Bestop’s TJ and LJ Trektop hardware is identical.

I ended up picking up @PMan’s (no longer a forum member unfortunately) TJ Trektop, and stealing the hardware off that one. That gave me the look I was yearning for:

View attachment 527821

The often mentioned downside of a Trektop is you can’t easily remove the whole top. You can remove the windows and flip back the Sunrider for a bikini top w/ a sunroof experience, but you’re never truly topless.

I had never liked removing my framed top entirely, so this was never a negative for me.

I’m confused on the part where you said you can’t fully remove the Trektop. Once all the windows are out all you have to do is pull the hinge pins and unlatch the header bar to remove it. I’ve never used the straps for the roll bar by the speakers.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

Next step, obtain soft top replacement. The current OEM-style was an aged Rugged Ridge top that I got when I sold my hardtop. I had always wanted to try the fastback style, so I picked up a Bestop Trektop LJ top (cloth only) from a FB Marketplace ad.

From there, I searched for the hardware, as the Sunrider portion still requires a frame of sorts. I discovered that with a few minor adjustments, Bestop’s TJ and LJ Trektop hardware is identical.

I ended up picking up @PMan’s (no longer a forum member unfortunately) TJ Trektop, and stealing the hardware off that one. That gave me the look I was yearning for:

View attachment 527821

The often mentioned downside of a Trektop is you can’t easily remove the whole top. You can remove the windows and flip back the Sunrider for a bikini top w/ a sunroof experience, but you’re never truly topless.

I had never liked removing my framed top entirely, so this was never a negative for me.

Looking good!

What happened with pman? I can tell I haven't been around as much; that's two usernames I've directly interacted with now gone.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

I’m confused on the part where you said you can’t fully remove the Trektop. Once all the windows are out all you have to do is pull the hinge pins and unlatch the header bar to remove it. I’ve never used the straps for the roll bar by the speakers.

You can, you just have to do it at home and stash it somewhere. It's too big to already be out and just decide you want an open sky.

Same with the windows, they're too long to roll up and ride with you. Main reason I've all but decided to go the other way and start looking for someone who wants to trade.

 

[Apparition]

You can, you just have to do it at home and stash it somewhere. It's too big to already be out and just decide you want an open sky.

Same with the windows, they're too long to roll up and ride with you. Main reason I've all but decided to go the other way and start looking for someone who wants to trade.

He said remove, not fold down. It’s a few seconds to remove.

I run a webshade under my Trektop. When we ran the Rubicon I stashed the windows and the door uppers on the webshade. Had to leave the top in safari mode for that.

I’ll also roll the windows in a clover roll if I think I’ll need them in the trail.

 

[PNW_LJ]

I’m confused on the part where you said you can’t fully remove the Trektop. Once all the windows are out all you have to do is pull the hinge pins and unlatch the header bar to remove it. I’ve never used the straps for the roll bar by the speakers.

I meant that it’s a bigger PITA than with the OEM style top. Totally doable though.

Looking good!

What happened with pman? I can tell I haven't been around as much; that's two usernames I've directly interacted with now gone.

Thank you!

Pman left the forum shortly after Jerry’s exodus. I spoke with him shortly thereafter, and he wanted to keep all the details private, which I respect. It is a bummer that he left, great guy and parts source.

 

[PNW_LJ]

I recently picked up a used single ARB compressor for tires and lockers. The plan is to add on the dual at a later point to split the duties between the two.


I’d gotten home after a long school day, and I open up the hood to look for a good spot for the single, and am met by this:

Yes, that is my AC compressor clutch lying behind the passenger side headlight!

I surmised that the bolt had worked its way out, allowing it to fly up, damaging the PS pump pulley, hood heat shield, and landing on the passenger side.

Completely freak scenario. I’m assuming this is a previous owner that had undertorqued it sometime previously?

In any case, one new AC clutch/bolt, serpentine belt and mopar power steering pump (thx @mudmaster) later, I was back on the road.

 

[PNW_LJ]

The single ARB made it’s way onto the driver side fender. I wanted to keep the ABS tray open as a potential spot for the dual ARB compressor.

I’ve heard concerns over engine bay heat shortening the life expectancy of electric air compressors located under the hood. I’ve also heard of folks having years of faultless service in the same spots.

I haven’t made up my mind just yet, but I am keeping my options open for the future.

 

[PNW_LJ]

I’ve run into wiring disasters with previous builds, so I wanted to start this one off right. Some will remember that at one point I’d purchased an SPOD system, that I later sold along with the BBK.

Recent forum discussions have centered around the Auxbeam vs Switchpros systems. The Switchpros has several neat features that I don’t see myself ever needing.

There is an argument to be made about the difference in quality, in that the cost of quality components alone overcomes Auxbeam’s price entirely. I’d heard mixed reviews about Auxbeam’s panel, but I finally decided to give it a try.


I picked up Bulletpoint’s “new” switch panel system:

From what I can tell, it is nothing more than a rebranded Auxbeam 8 gang unit, just with slightly more appealing styling and compatibility with their mounts.

I have purchased several of their phone mounts in the past, and was always pleased by their quality and customer service.

The fuse box found it’s way into the grille support rod. Shamelessly stole the idea from @MikekiM. I need to get some adel clamps for it.

And the switch panel itself got placed onto the overhead interior trim piece:

The design of the overhead panel was the main draw to the SPOD system for me. This however worked out just as neatly, I am happy with it thus far.

There is only 1 wire going into the interior, it connects the switch panel to the fuse box. Everything else is kept short and close to the battery.

 

[JMT]

This was a good read. Great journey. Can’t wait to meet up and do some trails together. I like the route you took to get where you are.

 

[PNW_LJ]

This was a good read. Great journey. Can’t wait to meet up and do some trails together. I like the route you took to get where you are.

Thanks Jeremy. And likewise, look forward to setting up a couple joint trips this summer.