Project Basketcase!

Did a little camping and river running on the coast this weekend to escape the heat.
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Got a reminder that swampers aren't very good sand and gravel tires,lol
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Had to winch over to a shallower section of river. Damn discs were getting jammed with rocks! I had to use low range to free them up
 
For comparisons sake that exhaust note in the video is through a stock exhaust with cat and quiet pos napa muffler. Love the deep tone of the stroker and high compression!
 
So i waited for pick n pull to have a 50% off sale day and grabbed a 96 grand cherokee 4.0l that wasn't blown up or molested. The trans pan was off it so i rolled the dice. It was like 150$ if i remember right.

Did a ton of research on strokers and quickly realized the only pistons worth a shit for various reasons came from a guy named russ pottenger in southern CA. Very knowledgeable guy who builds jeep strokers for desert racing classes requiring the amc 6 remain.

My idea was tight quench and aluminum head to help avoid detonation,run on pump gas and have higher compression for higher torque!

Got a new scat crank for a serpentine belt 4.2l/258.From 89-90 jeeps i believe(they fit my tj front accessory drive).
scat 4.0l length forged rods modified to have light chevy wrist pins.
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comp cam 68-231-4, 206/214 duration,.462"/.485" lift, custom ground 113* lsa for jeep fuel injection and nitrided.
.030" over forged pistons with the correct compression height to have zero deck without milling the crap out of the block and an 18cc bowl that better matches the fast burn 57cc chambers on my edelbrock cylinder head.
.040" mahle mls head gasket
Mild casting cleanup on the head and blended the seats into the bowls. Marked and unshrouded the valves a bit. cc'd the chambers after. With a tight quench of .040". Russ cc'd the pistons to be 10.2:1.

He said pump gas would be fine and it does great with 91. 87 and octane addive works in a pinch if i don't lug it.
View attachment 391957had a local machine shop assemble the rotating assembly for me and did the rest myself.
Used a banks revolver header russ recommended.no cracks in 20k miles so far.also used a horseshoe intake because why not. Had to drill and tap blank bosses in it for the sensor harnesses to reach and a little vacuum line work. Not an issue.
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Used these 280155703 bosch 24lb dodge neon injectors. Motor runs good on stock injection with no tuning. Hp tuners compatible Wideband and some flyin ryan tuning would probably help unlock mo powa.
Had some issues with a couple lifters being duds off the bat.replaced them(a small amount of clearancing of the pushrod holes on edelbrock heads lets you change lifters with the head on😎) and it still has more lifter noise than stock. Nature of the beast with cammed 4.0ls.

Replacement part quality is horrible.especially valvetrain parts.this is why strokers get a bad rap.though the parts that make it a stroker, ie crank,rods and pistons aren't something you see failing if done right.

I also went with a Centerforce 700469 High Inertia Flywheel for the hell of it. Figured it couldn't hurt and might help smooth out the almost 1/2" extra stroke and higher compression. Centerforce standard flywheel is listed as 27.5lbs and this one is a hair over 40lbs.stock luk clutch. Factory flywheel with the taper was long gone.


Love how it drives. Very torquey. Great offroad low rpm power.4.10s and 33s it pulls 8% grades locally in 5th and 2k rpms.holds 10% grades in 4th easily and will accelerate up them.I do wish I'd let russ put LS v8 valves in the head and step the relatively mild cam up larger. More power would be sweet even if its unnecessary. Best bang for the buck? No. But it is fun to drive and highway rpms are spot on for this motor.

I just discovered this thread (I rarely cruise the garage section because I usually get too many expensive ideas lol). I'm enjoying the build and completely agree on your comments about street power/gearing with the stroker vs crawling off road. And +1 for rowing your own gears 😎👍
 
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I just discovered this thread (I rarely cruise the garage section because I usually get too many expensive ideas lol). I'm enjoying the build and completely agree on your comments about street power/gearing with the stroker vs crawling off road. And +1 for rowing your own gears 😎👍

Thank you,you're right about the expensive ideas in the garage! 😆

It has to be my favorite part of the site though. Seeing different approaches to large and small issues,and build philosophy is inspiring
 
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I finally got around to installing a flex joint in my exhaust that will supposedly help my header stay crack free. Yes thats a bad valve cover leak i need to deal with,lol
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Also ditched the rattling napa muffler in favor of a nice condition 2005 rubicon oem muffler and tailpipe.the driveshaft and rear shock needed to be moved so i could snake the muffler/tailpipe combo in.i cut the factory ball socket off the muffler and used one of these cheap v-band couplers
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No complaints on the test drive other than some smoke from the little bit of detritus left in the muffler by mice. I got some alarmed looks and comments from passersby😆.

The oem muffler isn't any quieter than the napa muffler. But at least it doesn't have baffles rattling.
 
Jeep is 4x4 again! Angry sparrows from the front shaft fixed with this kit-
https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p1..._for_jeep_with_1310_series_frontrear_cv_.html
Simple job with just a sledge,brass drift,needlenose pliers and a socket big enough for the ujoint cups to fall into.

The non greasable centering yoke factory shafts will accept a greasable yoke. I'm not really a mud bogger,but i do have fun in the sloppy stuff occasionally and a greasable centering ball seemed like the right choice
 
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Jeep decided to give the gift of not starting with the key over christmas weekend. It was intermittently not cranking and finally gave out while extracting a friends new 4runner from 10 ft down a muddy bank.
Thankfully i could jump the starter under the hood.

I started the troubleshooting when i got home and verified that i could crank it by putting power to the yellow wire coming off the ignition switch. Its the one I'm pointing to on the connector.incedentally that pin was a loose fit with a bad connection also.finding and fixing that added some time and frustration to the diagnosis.
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Took apart the ignition electrical switch,cleaned up the contacts and reassembled with fresh dielectric grease but still no dice. It would start with a screwdriver in the switch but not installed on the column using the key,hmmm.i had previously taken the lock cylinder apart to rekey all 6 locks on the jeep the same and wondered if something was fubared there.

So i googled a few terms until it brought me back here to this site(no surprise there 🇺🇸) with a discussion that solved my issue!

My ignition actuator pin assembly had started to crack and wasn't letting the electrical switch rotate enough to crank. No pics as i did it in the rain with a bad mood,lol

Heres the thread-
Post in thread 'Do I need a new ignition switch?' https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/do-i-need-a-new-ignition-switch.23682/post-382157

Thankfully many chrysler products use that actuator so napa had one in stock.i used a dorman 924-704. I'll note that i found the same part number on amazon for a quarter of the price but i didn't want an even cheaper counterfit of an already cheap copy of the oem.so 80$ it was for a real dorman. It wasn't hard to do but i needed security torx bits and patience while rotating and wiggling everything back together gently.
 
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My soundbar has been dead for a month or so,and I've been procrasting on diagnosing the problem. I was in my shop today and noticed i had some 6.5" kenwoods left over from another project and figured what the hay, I'll swap out one of the 5.25" polks to see if thats the problem. Easier than opening up the dash and troubleshooting the little kenwood amp and stereo right?well success! The kenwoods screwed right in place and i have loud(ish) music again! Its easy to forget just how little music the dash speakers(5.25" polks) provide until its all you have.

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My soundbar has been dead for a month or so,and I've been procrasting on diagnosing the problem. I was in my shop today and noticed i had some 6.5" kenwoods left over from another project and figured what the hay, I'll swap out one of the 5.25" polks to see if thats the problem. Easier than opening up the dash and troubleshooting the little kenwood amp and stereo right?well success! The kenwoods screwed right in place and i have loud(ish) music again! Its easy to forget just how little music the dash speakers(5.25" polks) provide until its all you have.

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How is the sound at 60? I spent alot of money on decent sound and between the cheap soft top and freeway speeds any music was drowned out.