Rock Sliders / Rocker Guards Guide

[Starrs]

I was all about them until they arrived damaged of course. Also the powder coat is very nice. The powder coat on the ARB sliders is a lot different than the Mopar powder coat on my bumpers, so it would have looked a little off IMO. I like more of a dull finish and these were shiny.

 

[Daz7]

Colour code them.

 

[zip04]

Good thread, thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JamesAndTheSahara]

@JamesAndTheSahara i lied. They actually weigh 66lbs

That definitely gives me pause in my consideration, and makes me want to lean toward ARB, not to mention the design is AEV. Great hard data!

Its significantly lighter than other competitors with a poprivet design. I’d be very interested to see how that weight savings compared to other big brands (JCR, PS, Motobilt, Genright). I looked all I could and very few people run the ARB rockers, and for how light they are there’s no reason thousands of people aren’t running them vs the competitions. Looking forward to seeing someone get them on their rig.

 

[Camdenst]

A to Z Fabrications

$259.99
Powdercoat: $85
Sidestep: $50
Diamond plate: $20

75 lbs.

3/16" thick steel for the flat bases or 10-gauge diamond plate steel.
All rocker guard bases are cut to use flush mount hardware.
Steps, 1.5" round or 2" square--both with stand-offs welded in to make the outside of the step just over 3".

For the TJs he can do a true wheel well to wheel well. I had them on my previous rig and they can take a hit, a very solid and well priced product.

 

[JMT]

A to Z Fabrications

$259.99
Powdercoat: $85
Sidestep: $50
Diamond plate: $20

75 lbs.

3/16" thick steel for the flat bases or 10-gauge diamond plate steel.
All rocker guard bases are cut to use flush mount hardware.
Steps, 1.5" round or 2" square--both with stand-offs welded in to make the outside of the step just over 3".

For the TJs he can do a true wheel well to wheel well. I had them on my previous rig and they can take a hit, a very solid and well priced product.

I will add this to my guide with credit and permission.

Trivia: There are several other sliders I did not includenin this write up. One is $1800. Anyone know what it is?

 

[JamesAndTheSahara]

I will add this to my guide with credit and permission.

Trivia: There are several other sliders I did not includenin this write up. One is $1800. Anyone know what it is?

Probably the automatic one.

 

[JMT]

Probably the automatic one.

You got to admit, that would be nice for the lady!

http://www.rockslideengineering.com/shop/step-sliders/tj-step-sliders.html

If I were made of money, I would get one. Gotta say though, wouldn’t want to risk it on the rocks!

 

[Fouledplugs]

Hey @JMT any of the sliders you mentioned that dont have tubework can have a rock slider tube added. It will require welding.$130.00

http://shop.poisonspyder.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=DIY-08-020

Or you could add the DOM tube plus a step in between $180

http://shop.poisonspyder.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=DIY-50-020

I do run the warn rock sliders (my personal fav) on my YJ. I did a DOM tube slider on each side for added support and aesthetics. Although I did NOT use the PSC kit on my Warn slider.
Ill get some close ups as soon as the weather clears up.

 

[JMT]

I've been doing some more research and will gradually fill everything out. I have to tell you, the RockHard 4x4 are looking better every day. Weight is 60 lbs for the pair, comes powdercoated black in semi-gloss with a 20% texture, works with 99% of flares, including MC, mounts to tub on side and underneath for most clearance and countersunk, 100% made in the USA, assembled, thought up, steel from, etc....USA ALL THE WAY and at a price point that is very hard to beat, $300-340.

I've filled in some of the other weights, and the range so far is between 56 and 93 lbs. Still some to go....

There are some making the case that mounted to the body mounts is better since it protects them as well. Body lifts usually cause a little more difficult install that could involve welding. Others argue that tub mounted is better since it gives more clearance. I prefer tub mounted.

Another issue is counter vs non-countersunk on the bottom of the tub. The arguments here are that countersunk weaken the steel at that point while non-countersunk are stronger. Even if the bolt head is damaged on the rocks, the argument is the bolts are still in a condition that is removable and you can just replace. I still prefer countersunk, as non-countersunk just seems counterintuitive to the idea of sliding over a rock...

 

[JamesAndTheSahara]

I've been doing some more research and will gradually fill everything out. I have to tell you, the RockHard 4x4 are looking better every day. Weight is 60 lbs for the pair, comes powdercoated black in semi-gloss with a 20% texture, works with 99% of flares, including MC, mounts to tub on side and underneath for most clearance and countersunk, 100% made in the USA, assembled, thought up, steel from, etc....USA ALL THE WAY and at a price point that is very hard to beat, $300-340.

I've filled in some of the other weights, and the range so far is between 56 and 93 lbs. Still some to go....

There are some making the case that mounted to the body mounts is better since it protects them as well. Body lifts usually cause a little more difficult install that could involve welding. Others argue that tub mounted is better since it gives more clearance. I prefer tub mounted.

Another issue is counter vs non-countersunk on the bottom of the tub. The arguments here are that countersunk weaken the steel at that point while non-countersunk are stronger. Even if the bolt head is damaged on the rocks, the argument is the bolts are still in a condition that is removable and you can just replace. I still prefer countersunk, as non-countersunk just seems counterintuitive to the idea of sliding over a rock...

I would not even consider a rock unless it had a backing plate, does the rockhard have a backing plate?

 

[JamesAndTheSahara]

I've been doing some more research and will gradually fill everything out. I have to tell you, the RockHard 4x4 are looking better every day. Weight is 60 lbs for the pair, comes powdercoated black in semi-gloss with a 20% texture, works with 99% of flares, including MC, mounts to tub on side and underneath for most clearance and countersunk, 100% made in the USA, assembled, thought up, steel from, etc....USA ALL THE WAY and at a price point that is very hard to beat, $300-340.

I've filled in some of the other weights, and the range so far is between 56 and 93 lbs. Still some to go....

There are some making the case that mounted to the body mounts is better since it protects them as well. Body lifts usually cause a little more difficult install that could involve welding. Others argue that tub mounted is better since it gives more clearance. I prefer tub mounted.

Another issue is counter vs non-countersunk on the bottom of the tub. The arguments here are that countersunk weaken the steel at that point while non-countersunk are stronger. Even if the bolt head is damaged on the rocks, the argument is the bolts are still in a condition that is removable and you can just replace. I still prefer countersunk, as non-countersunk just seems counterintuitive to the idea of sliding over a rock...

Ignore my last post, I had some time so I pulled the parts list and its not listed. I highly suggest you get a set of rockers that include some type of backing plate (JCR Offroad, ARB, and Savvy are the ones off the top of my head). The sheet metal just isn’t that strong and with the backing plate the steps become incredibly more strong. There may be others that have a backing plate that I don’t recall off the top of my head.

 

[JMT]

Ignore my last post, I had some time so I pulled the parts list and its not listed. I highly suggest you get a set of rockers that include some type of backing plate (JCR Offroad, ARB, and Savvy are the ones off the top of my head). The sheet metal just isn’t that strong and with the backing plate the steps become incredibly more strong. There may be others that have a backing plate that I don’t recall off the top of my head.

I hadn’t got to your quest. Got lots going on here. Thanks, and I’ll be checking into some others

 

[cjaama]

I do run the warn rock sliders (my personal fav) on my YJ. I did a DOM tube slider on each side for added support and aesthetics. Although I did NOT use the PSC kit on my Warn slider.
Ill get some close ups as soon as the weather clears up.

You have the Warn sliders? Seems like you like them. Any issues? Heavy? Do you have any pictures of them mounted before modifying them? I haven't really been able to find any. Thanks!

 

[JMT]

Ignore my last post, I had some time so I pulled the parts list and its not listed. I highly suggest you get a set of rockers that include some type of backing plate (JCR Offroad, ARB, and Savvy are the ones off the top of my head). The sheet metal just isn’t that strong and with the backing plate the steps become incredibly more strong. There may be others that have a backing plate that I don’t recall off the top of my head.

As far as backing plate(s), is it a plate(s) that is underneath that provides support between the slider and the tub?

One other question, why do companies like RockHard 4x4 have so much confidence in their product to have a Lifetime Warranty? I noticed on their install that underneath the slider they have welded on spacers, I think there are five, so those are the only five contact points other than along the edge at the sheet metal of the tub. Seems strong and not strong. Leaves questions. But they seem confident with the Lifetime Warranty

 

[JMT]

@JamesAndTheSahara, ignore as I see the backing plate for the JCR is mounted on the side of the tub. There were 10 zinc plated backing plates on the Rokmen, while they were still available!

As for the lifetime warranty, what say ye???

 

[JMT]

Ignore my last post, I had some time so I pulled the parts list and its not listed. I highly suggest you get a set of rockers that include some type of backing plate (JCR Offroad, ARB, and Savvy are the ones off the top of my head). The sheet metal just isn’t that strong and with the backing plate the steps become incredibly more strong. There may be others that have a backing plate that I don’t recall off the top of my head.

Ok, so why do we need more than 3/16”? UCF’s TCase skid is 3/16” steel or 1/4” aluminum. If it’s sufficient there, why wouldn’t it be sufficient on the rock sliders? Have you heard stories or what? Just curious, because very few offer backing plates.

 

[Eddie Greenlee]

I quickly read over this thread and did not see any mention of a rock slider I bought and installed . I did a thread on it. I have been very pleased with them the name of the company is Stout Fabrication. They are very strong and the mounting holes and plates are extremely secure.

 

[JMT]

I quickly read over this thread and did not see any mention of a rock slider I bought and installed . I did a thread on it. I have been very pleased with them the name of the company is Stout Fabrication. They are very strong and the mounting holes and plates are extremely secure.

I’ll look into it and add it to the guide. Thanks!

 

[JMT]

I quickly read over this thread and did not see any mention of a rock slider I bought and installed . I did a thread on it. I have been very pleased with them the name of the company is Stout Fabrication. They are very strong and the mounting holes and plates are extremely secure.

Can you link me to the thread? I’d like to read it.